Welcome to the CoValence Labs Blog!

Information in our industry travels fast which is why we have created the CoValence Labs Blog. The purpose of our blog is to educate and discuss industry news with anyone and everyone that is involved with the personal care industry. We will be utilizing our blog as well as our Facebook and Twitter accounts to keep communication flowing, educating and to ultimately enhance our customer service.

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Stop the hands of time with Renovage®


With both Skin Inc. and Cosmetics and Toiletries publishing articles about telomeres we wanted to re-post a blog we wrote from August 2011.

We all know that our age is written on our face, especially when obvious signs, such as wrinkles, are present in large numbers and when they are deep. This explains the heavy demand for cosmetic skin care products; their daily use can delay the appearance of wrinkles.

Most facial skin care products on the market at present claim that they can significantly diminish and reduce wrinkles. However, with so much choice sometimes confusing the consumer, companies are beginning to diversify product ranges in order to target a wider audience of women who are now looking for ‘preventative’ action rather than a ‘quick fix’.


We know that telomeres are the cell’s biological clock regulating how fast we age. They are found in both the epidermis and dermis and shorten every time the cell divides. Cells are only able to divide a limited number of times before they die. Sounds pretty dire. We thought we were supposed to promote cell turnover to stay young. So what do we do? We know we can’t lengthen telomeres, but can we just stop them from shortening? Renovage® from Sederma claims to do just that.

Renovage® is the ingredient, Teprenone, which stabilizes telomere shortening increasing cell life by 1/3. That’s a lot of years in the life of a cell. And if slowing down our cells’ biological clock wasn’t enough, Renovage® firms, hydrates, plumps and reduces wrinkles, sun spots, redness and pore size.

If you would like to try one of our products that contain Renovage®, we have a great neck and chest cream called ‘The Plunge.’ For far too long, women have hidden behind scarves and turtlenecks to hide their aging chests and necks. However, ever since CoValence® has introduced The Plunge, the décolletage is making a resounding home coming just as the turkey ‘waddle’ neck has flown the coop. Aging is a fact of life; it can be daunting and at the same time beautiful. Yet, we tend to forget, as we are driving from one soccer game to the next, that ageing can be managed. One easy step is to apply The Plunge once or twice daily. After continued use of The Plunge our product testers quickly noticed a new, revitalized neck and décolletage – one worth showing off!

Cosmetics and Toiletries Article 

Skin Inc. Article

Ask a Sales or Account Executive today how you can try a sample of Renovage® or how to incorporate this ingredient into your custom formulation.

+1 480.897.0551 / customerservice@covalence.com



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CoValence has three great products featuring the ingredient Subuless.


Sederma has updated all testing and marketing to meet Sederma’s high standards of quality and have completed their update of Subuless (formerly known as Dermasyr.) Subuless now has some new and exciting marketing claims associated with it 

Updated Claims: 

  • “First active ingredient tested on normal human sebocytes” + “cosmetogenomic approach” to testing

Lipid reduction

  • Reduction of total lipid production -58%.
  • Reduction of pro-inflammatory lipid production -49%


  • Neutralization of stress induced by P.acnes: IL-6 -74%, IL-8 -82%, PGE2 -81%
  • Inhibition of pro-inflammatory receptors of P.acnes – TLR2 (toll-like receptors) Expression (mRNA) -50%

Free Radical protection

  • Oxidative inflammation of reactive nitrogen species -41% and reactive oxygen species -77%


  • Reduction of Hyperkeratinisation via normalization of desquamation process +40%
  • Visual improvement of epidermis renewal


  • Hyperpigmentation – reduction of melanosome transfer – 87%
  • Inhibition of tyrosinase -26%
  • Inhibition of Melanin -31%

P.Acnes control

  • P.Acnes control via production of anti-microbial peptides – specifically ß-defensin 2 +47% and Cathelicidin +39% — – NOTE: only other ingredient that we stock that does this is Bio-Fense

Updated clinical studies

  • Hyperseborrehea/oily skin
  • skin blemish reduction
  • purity recovery

Here are Vault products that contain Subuless:

Welcome Matte (VLT0.5010) improves acne and sebum related skin issues with the anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory benefits of Lilac Stem Cells, Totarol and Spin Trap.

MatteLux (VLT0.5054) is a unique, high-end moisturizer that caters specifically to oily and problematic skin, with a blend of natural botanical extracts to help strengthen and promote cellular oxygen supply, increase cell function and improve acne and other sebum-related skin conditions.  Oil-free luxury!

Oil Free Moisturizer (VLT0.5011) is made from Botanical Stem Cells and Montmorillonite, which both regulate and absorb sebum.  These ingredients greatly reduce oil build up in the pores while providing maximum hydration.


+1 480.897.0551 / customerservice@covalence.com


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It’s not too late…




You have until April 11th to get your name added to our Lucky You! subscription.

Simply fill out the order form and you will be added to our list! You only need to add your name once and if you ever want to be removed, just drop us a line at luckyyou@covalence.com.

This time we have products to help you skin recover from an unrelenting winter. No matter if you live in snow-covered New York or the desert of New Mexico, our products will quench you skin’s thirst for moisture. Each box will contain a cleanser, toner, body polish, body moisturizer and the all-important SPF.*

If you have any questions, please feel free to contact an Account Executive.

+1 480.897.0551 / customerservice@covalence.com

*Individual products may vary while supplies last and may be substituted for a comparable product.


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Consumers look to bloggers, a trend being underlined in the nail care category.


By Katie Nichol, 02-Apr-2014

Consumers are turning to bloggers and online mediums to educate themselves about beauty and personal care, according to the latest social media trends update from Mintel.



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Bricks as well as clicks? Why online brands are now getting physical.


By Lucy Whitehouse, 02-Apr-2014

With several historically web-only cosmetics players now investing in bricks and mortar, it looks like brands are flying in the face of the recent industry emphasis on going digital; Cosmetics Design looks at why.



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Direct selling among dominating beauty trends in North and South America.


Here is another great article from CosmeticsDesign.com.

By Michelle Yeomans+, 18-Mar-2014

Euromonitor places the key role of direct selling, a growing popularity of BB creams, nail products, and the importance of skin care products, despite the variety of preferences, as dominating top trends across 15 American countries.



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Upcoming Cosmetic and Beauty Industry Webinars.





ICMAD and the U.S. Commercial Service are partnering to offer a series of webinars on “A Practical Guide to Selling Cosmetics Overseas.” Together, we have developed six webinars to introduce companies interested in selling to new international markets.  Featured speakers will be U.S. Commercial Service in-country specialists to discuss the market and distribution channels, and experts from local government agencies or regulatory consultants to explain the registration processes in each country.

Selling in CAFTA CountriesMarch 20, 2014

Register for this Event

Selling Cosmetics in PeruApril 29, 2014

Register for this Event

Selling Cosmetics in NAFTA CountriesJune 03, 2014

Register for this Event

Selling Cosmetics in PanamaJune 24, 2014

Register for this Event

Selling Cosmetics in ChileJuly 22, 2014

Register for this Event




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Come hear CoValence’s John Stanek speak at the Face & Body Expo in Chicago


Innovations in Rosacea and Acne Care: New Technologies and Concepts

With John Stanek

Saturday, March 22 3:00–4:00pm

This session is designed to discuss theories and factors that may contribute to the appearance of rosacea and acne as they are understood today. In addition, cosmetic options and strategies will be reviewed that aim to reduce the appearance of rosacea and acne, and new technologies, ingredients and products that can help achieve this goal will be discussed.


John Stanek is the Director of New Technologies and Product Development at CoValence. With more than 10 years of experience numerous new product discoveries, Stanek’s primary responsibility is to research new technologies, leading to new concepts and finished goods.


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Beware of the ‘Eyes’ of March.



Much like Julius Caesar foreshadowed his death on March 15th we all know wrinkles around the eyes are coming. Don’t let the delicate skin around your eye suffer the same fate as poor Julius. Fight back with these wonderful products;

Bye Bye Birdie (VLT0.5503)  is a complete anti-wrinkle formula designed especially to tackle the pesty crow’s feet around the eyes as well as frown lines. No topical Cosmeceutical works just like Botox®, but Bye Bye Birdie is a definite close relative to Botox that is less expensive, more convenient and safer.

Bye Bye Birdie was formulated with Snap-8, a newer offspring of the infamous Argirilene®. We made sure that we formulated with 10% Snap-8, the maximum recommended percentage, because tests show that it is 30% more effective than Argirilene®. It has clinically proven to reduce crow’s feet by up to 63% as it targets muscle contractions with a pre-synaptic strategy by restraining the release of the neurotransmitter (acetylcholine) from the motor neuron.

We could have stopped at Snap-8, since we are big fans of it, but Bye Bye Birdie also contains 5% of the new peptide, Inyline, which also targets muscle contractions using a post-synaptic strategy, but it the diminishes the ligand (Ach)-receptor (AChR) binding, responsible for the formation of the muscle action potential. In more simplistic terms… Inyline has proven to reduce wrinkles by 14.9% in 28 days!

We’re not done yet… Bye Bye Birdie also contains a special encapsulated Retinol, perhaps the most effective anti-wrinkle ingredient in the skin care industry, combined with Edelweiss Stem Cells and Antarcticine which effectively builds collagen and reduces wrinkles.

Eye Wish (VLT0.5504) exemplifies, ‘luxury’, and therefore it is formulated with the ingredients we would want to see in a luxurious product, including the successful pairing of 5% Argireline® (the most well-known peptide) along with 5% Leuphasyl®. New research shows that this dynamic peptide duo work far better together than separately — making Eye Wish a perfect topical take-home companion product, post-cosmetic injection procedures.

Borage Oil contains the highest GLA (Gamma Linolenic Acid) concentration of any oil available which helps to increase cell resilience and moistens the fatty layer beneath the skin. Borage Oil, along with other botanicals and ChroNOline, delivers a multitude of beauty benefits such as aiding collagen loss, soothing dry, scaly skin and combating the illusive wrinkle (or two).

Our product testers visibly noticed that the light, airy texture of Eye Wish was extremely effective at firming and plumping the skin, quickly reducing the look of fine lines. They also realized that even though the Eye Wish ingredients were chosen specifically for the eye area and expression lines, it can also be worn as an all over, beautiful anti-age face cream.

The Illuminating Eye Cream (VLT0.5501) is an eye cream that promotes healing and focuses on eliminating wrinkles specifically around the eye.  This off-white iridescent cream is designed for all skin types, and has particular anti-aging properties that smooth wrinkles and leave skin looking plump and supple.  Illuminating Eye Cream is paraben-free, non‐irritating, clinically tested, allergy tested and dermatologist tested!  In other words… it has received an A+ for sensitivity and anti-aging results.

Wrinkles are a way of life (sigh), but they can be drastically more pronounced due to dryness.  To combat dryness and the formation of wrinkles, there are two major moisturizing ingredients in Illuminating Eye Cream.  The first is Glycerin Soja Protein, a plant protein from soybeans with a high molecular weight and Vitamin E content.  It strengthens proteins and promotes protein synthesis, improves the efficacy of natural moisturizing factors in the formulation, and is an excellent anti‐wrinkle agent.  The second ingredient is Sodium Hyaluronate (L), which plumps, lubricates, and moisturizes the skin by preventing trans‐epidermal water loss.  These two ingredients work together well to ensure that your skin is properly hydrated and that the wrinkles have lessened.

Lavish Lash & Brow Peptide Serum (VLT0.7500) Eyes are said to be the windows to the soul, a reflection of emotion, health and beauty. Since ancient times, women have emphasized and framed their eyes by darkening and thickening their eyelashes and eyebrows. But there is only so much modern mascara can do.  As we age, our lashes and brows become dramatically thinner, shorter and eventually turn gray. CoValence has developed a potent treatment to hold back the hands of time maintaining youthful eyelashes and eyebrows.

Utilizing cutting edge technologies, our treatment preserves youthfulness of the lashes and brows by thickening, lengthening, conditioning and darkening. A novel peptide, Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17, increases eyelash thickness and length by 25% within two weeks during clinical trials. Everyone’s talking about stem cells these days, and Apple Stem Cells encourage hair to grow thicker and longer while preventing hair from graying. A special botanical complex promotes youthfulness of the lashes and brows by preventing inflammation, free radicals and glycation which is a triggering factor for hair loss.

Pack Your Bags (VLT0.5502) After you wake up in the morning, have you ever groggily looked at yourself in the mirror and said, “Mirror, mirror on the wall… how do I get rid of these under eye bags once and for all?!” Well, you may not have actually said those words, but we know there are moments when we all may feel as if our eye bags are so heavy we would have to pay an extra ‘baggage fee’ at the airport. If you can relate to dark circles and puffiness around the delicate eye area, Covalence’s Pack Your Bags was specifically formulated for you. The lack of blood circulation under the eye area causes the bags and dark circles to appear, which is why it was imperative that the actives formulated in Pack Your Bags targeted these issues.

Pack Your Bags is a soothing amber-colored gel that quickly decreases eye puffiness and reduces dark circles. Eyeseryl™ and Haloxyl™ remarkably reinforce the reduction of under eye inflammation, while firming and toning up the delicate under eye area, giving you a more youthful look. Bioskinup™ and Hesperidin continue to help produce collagen, increase blood circulation as well as generate anti-inflammatory reflexes helping to further improve the health of the under eye area. Green Coffee, Kiwi and Evening Primrose Oil round out the ‘Dream Team’! These three botanicals, collectively, are rich in flavonoid, polyphenols, EFA (Essential Fatty Acids), Vitamins C and E – extremely safe for the delicate eye area.

Spin Eye Serum (VLT0.5508) is one of the most sought after formulas that other laboratories from around the world have tried to copy, but none have been successful. The ingredient list is small, but the reason for CoValence’s success with the Spin Eye Serum is because of our proprietary mixing technique which magnificently combines actual Liquid Crystals with Spin Trap (PBN), the ultimate “intelligent” antioxidant.

The PBN protects skin from Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) found in pollution (the higher the pollution, the more ROS on the skin) and corrects the damage caused to healthy skin from imbalanced molecules.  In turn, the Liquid Crystals (our body is made up of Liquid Crystals) transforms into an emollient protective barrier on the skin… protecting skin from the environment’s aging factors. What does this mean to your skin? Well, not only is the Spin Eye Serum physically protecting skin from the harmful, accelerated aging effects of the environment, it also works to change the path of what has already been damaged.


+1 480.897.0551 / customerservice@covalence.com


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Chirally-Correct: Yes, it exists even if you don’t see it.



CoValence is among the pioneers who have brought to focus the application of “Chirally-Correct” ingredients in skin care formulations to maximize their efficacy and avoid any potential or pitfalls in the alteration or instability of their chemical structure during their formulation. Our article (Chiral Skin Care, GCI, November 2010) and patents (US Patents 8,211,873; 8,227,426; 8,410,079; and 8,859,269) are attest to it.

Briefly stated, our article and patents bring to focus that:

Not ALL optically active ingredients possess selectivity or variability in their topical attributes. A number of ingredients, in their stereoselective state, can possess differential skin care attributes. The combinations of two optically active ingredients that can form a bond (ionic or covalent) that leads to a new combination compound may not necessarily have any difference in its skin penetration rates (as we know today), but may have significantly different biological affects upon their release as original individual components after their penetration into skin, the latter depending upon the stereochemistry of the two combining moieties. Our article simply brings to the attention of formulators and marketers that the selection of stereospecific molecules can be of value in targeted skin care applications. While the concept of the stereospecificity in pharmaceutical industry has been known for a very long time, CoValence is proud to having introduced this concept in skin care applications since year 2000 as the phraseology: “Chirally-Correct”. In a cosmic sense, the Earth came to existence over 2 billion years ago. All chemical entities that we know today can be traced to their evolution or creation beliefs. Thus, nothing may be considered fundamentally new, irrespective of those millions of patents that have issued so far. Everything is applications based, in this cosmic sense. “Chirally-Correct” is an example of this applications-based concept of natural and other right- or left-handed ingredients.

In an article published in Dermascope (February 2014), “Chirally Correct Skin Care… Or Is It?” several points have been brought to the attention of readers that need further clarification entertained herein.

Breaking Down the Science: Our main point is that chiral molecules can have dissimilar biological activity. Upon their penetration into skin and diffusion into dermis and bloodstream such differential biological activity can be an important consideration relative to their efficacy and safety (toxicology). We do need to focus on what is happening beyond the visible layer of skin. Skin, after all, is a three-dimensional structure composed of stereospecific molecules (L-amino acids in proteins, and optically-active nucleotides, among others) that can be very selective in terms of what is permitted through it.

We are not proposing that all chiral molecules have different rates of skin penetration upon their topical application. However, this can actually happen if there are other ingredients in the formulation (added intentionally or inadvertently) that can form a complex with the chiral ingredient used in that formulation. Prudent, informative chemical considerations of all ingredients in a topical formulation are thus necessary. The comment in Dermascope that “the bottom line is there’s not one iota of science to support the premise of chirally-correct ingredients in skin care products” is like saying that “it does not exist if I do not see it”. The discovery of stereospecific topical skin penetrative ingredients is on the horizon. It may require future inventive minds of electron chemists and pharmaceutical biochemists, among other concordant disciplines.

Pharmaceutically Correct; Cosmetically Questionable: The case of retinoic acid presented is a good example. Although retinoic acid itself does not have any optically active carbon atoms its complexation with a “chirally-correct” molecule, such as an L-amino acid, can result in a “chirally-correct” retinoic acid derivative, which, depending on the three-dimensional stereochemistry of such complexing agent may have a differential skin penetration. Whether this difference is due to selective permeability of L-isomer, or its inherent biological property may require the inventive minds of disciplines mentioned above. 

Absorption: Function of Chirality or Other Factors? It is stated that “Penetration is more a function of the size of the molecule and the strength of the liposome or technology of the delivery system.” The possibility that the three-dimensional stereochemistry of such ingredients or their derivatized complexes may have a differential skin penetration needs to be recognized, albeit perhaps theoretically at the moment. 

Allergens or Just an Irritating Distraction? We do not imply that “non-chirally correct formula can cause an allergic reaction”. A particular optically-active ingredient may itself have allergenic properties or be biologically inactive, while its optical counterpart may not have the same issues. Our focus is to be selective in that “chirally-correct” direction.  To illustrate this point, Kosari et al. (Dermatitis, 2010;21(3):148-153; http://www.medscape.com/viewarticle/723147_3) state : “Studies have confirmed that dl-α-tocopherol (of synthetic origin) induces dermatitis more frequently than d-α-tocopherol (of natural origin).  Adams et al. (Dermatitis, 2010;21(4):199-202) state: “The North American Contact Dermatitis Group (NACDG) reported a 1.1% rate of positive patch-test reaction to dl-α-tocopherol 100% in 2003 to 2004 and a relative rate of 1.00 in 2001 to 2002. dl-α-Tocopherol was on the NACDG’s list of the 20 most common allergens in cosmetics from 2001 to 2004; 3.1% of women and 0.6% of men had positive patch test reactions to vitamin E that were attributed to a cosmetic not otherwise specified (Warshaw et al., J Am Acad Dermatol 2009;60:23–38). Additionally, documentation from The Linus Pauling Institute states: “The biological activity of vitamin E in animals is defined by its influence on symptoms of deficiency, including neuropathy, fetal death, or myopathy (muscle disease), and is dependent upon distinct regulatory processes. These regulatory processes largely explain why RRR-alpha-tocopherol, or d-alpha-tocopherol, is the most biologically potent of the eight naturally occurring forms of vitamin E”. This is directive of possible biological specificity of the optical isomers of an ingredient that cosmetic chemists need to be cognizant of. 

Unstable in its Foundation. The comments: “most chirally correct ingredients degrade rather easily and change their chiral activity, which can then affect their penetration ability.” “Even if you put a chirally active in a cosmetic preparation, you cannot be sure that it will stay that way”. “These are very mobile materials. They are not inert and can change their rotations”, is obviously a non-chemist interpretation. Most optically active materials that are currently being used in cosmetic products have fairly stable chemical structure. The process of racemization that can affect the stereochemistry and optical rotation of a “chirally-correct” molecule are usually possible under harsher chemical reaction or pH conditions. For example, peptide synthesis with “chirally-correct” amino acids using dicyclohexylcarbodiimide or mixed anhydride technology can cause racemization (conversion of a D or L compound into a mixture of D and L). Extremely low or high pH conditions (especially very high pH) can also cause such racemizations. Such conditions are not typically encountered in cosmetic formulations or manufacturing processes. Then, there is the process of mutarotation, which changes only the optical rotation of a compound in a solution state, but it does not change their D or L structure or their biological properties. 

We eagerly anticipate that the interest ignited by the concept of “Chirally-Correct” may help us better understand these ingredients, and additionally paving the path for future development of stereoselective skin penetrating ingredients and delivery systems with targeted topical attributes. The researchers, marketers, and consumers shall all reap the benefits of such a coordinated endeavor.



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