Happy Days are Here Again… As of July 1^st we started batching more Vault products in order for you to have complete Anti-Aging, Acne, Sensitive and Brightening product systems, at more doable prices. The Vault products are only available in bulk, and filling minimums still apply, however one (1) to three (3) gallons of a batched product are now more favorably priced.

In addition to the new batched Vault products, we have added brand new formulas to our Vault offering – giving you more opportunities to be a hero for your clients.

Please contact a Sales or Account Executive to get the updated Vault Price List and Catalog.

ORGANICALLY INTRIGUING

We started our USDA’s National Organic Program (NOP) Certification with gusto and after our Regulatory Department has worked on the paperwork for countless hours, we can now see the light at the end of the tunnel!

There have been times during the process when we questioned if it was necessary to get the NOP certification due to that the USDA does not oversee the ‘organic’ claims made in skincare. However, we knew that there would come a day when an independent body would take matters into their own hands and mandate that products are NOP certified if the word “organic” is used on product labeling. Well… it isn’t farfetched, but it is intriguing, that Whole Foods Market is the first (that we have seen) non-regulatory body to enforce their independent organic guidelines. Here is their blog, if you are interested in reading more…

 http://blog.wholefoodsmarket.com/2010/06/organic-labeling-for-body-care/

I SCREAM, YOU SCREAM,  

WE ALL SCREAM FOR A DREAM CREAM!

What is a dream cream? I think it is safe to say that we all have our own vision of the ingredients that make up a dream cream, serum, elixir, et al. As many of you are aware, CoValence is not unlike every other manufacturer in the skincare industry. We are all questioning whether the process of reformulating products is a need of safety and sustainability, or simply consumer demand?

The answer is probably a little bit of both. Two different industry magazines succinctly touched on the topic in regards to how consumer demand could be creating industry changes that are not necessarily the best for any of us.

NewScientist’s March 13, 2010 issue mentioned that while we are moving towards more renewable ingredient resources, “…they can be far from environmentally benign…” In Cosmeticsdesign.com, Katie Bird wrote in her June 15^th article, “Manufacturers are reformulating to tick all the consumer’s boxes, which in itself is dangerous as this is a moving target…”

 What does all of this mean? It means… know your facts about ingredients, safety, sustainability, etc. and do not panic if you read something new on a blog. Understand that not all ‘natural’ ingredients are the best choice just as you should not be afraid of ‘lab derived” ingredients. The world consists of the good, the bad and the ugly ingredients – albeit subjective. Our job is to utilize the ‘good’ and educate everyone on the ‘bad’ and ‘ugly’.

ARE YOU DOING YOUR BODY GOOD?

Debates continue to erupt amongst industry experts and scientists over Vitamin D and the role it plays on our skin. There have been recent discussions over whether Vitamin D should be ingested orally or produced naturally within the body. In the article, “To D or Not to D: Many Still Question Vitamin D,” posted by Cosmetic & Toiletries, we learn that the majority of current research on Vitamin D is both “inconclusive and often contradictory.”  Who’s right? Who’s wrong? Consequently, the consumer is left to judge and make that decision for us because, as mentioned in the previous article, ultimately they are the ones who drive the market.

Even more pressing is the use of sunscreens and “their potential to block Vitamin D production in the body.”  In the article, Henry Lim, MD writes, “…proving that Vitamin D could prevent certain illnesses would require large studies that no pharmaceutical manufacturers would support.” With that said, it is imperative for manufacturers such as ourselves to remain knowledgeable about industry news such as this.  We must do our part to provide consumers with a product that will ultimately benefit their body and perhaps protect it at the same time. It is like that old saying repeated by Zoe Diana Draelos, MD in the Cosmetics & Toiletries post, “You can have too much of a good thing.” It is important for us all to remember that moderation is the key. Whether you choose to get your fill of Vitamin D orally, or the old fashioned way, just be wise and be careful-no one knows your body better than YOU!

 Formulation note… Vitamin D in skincare is not accepted in many countries; Almond Oil contains a natural supply of Vitamin D.

 NEED A GOOD MECHANIC?

We dare say that there are only a few of us that could call ourselves mechanically inclined when it comes to cars, appliances and our skin. Our skin? Yes, our skin! However, rest assured… even if you are not the best mechanic for your skin, CoValence develops with ingredients that trigger skin mechanisms which result in perfectly tuned up skin.

Back in November 2009 we brought Renovage™ to your attention. Renovage™ triggers and stabilizes the mechanism of telomere shortening, prolonging cell life by 1/3. Not too shabby for a skincare ingredient. Is it?

Another extremely efficient mechanism ingredient that we introduced to you in August 2009 is, LONGEVICELL^®. This botanical extract from myrtle, is rich in oligogalacturonans and has been proven to slow down the senescence factors plus activate the SIRT1 (Sirtuin) expression in skin —  increasing the life of cells. LONGEVICELL^® is a true cell regenerator and guardian of tissue longevity erasing the first signs of aging.

It is our pleasure to introduce “Most wanted antioxidant” to you…  Thiotane (L-ergothioneine). This powerful chiral antioxidant is a natural amino acid, MMPi, UVA/UVB protector, products energy, scavenges free radicals, recycles Vitamin C like Vitamin E, neutralizes ozone, inhibits tyrosinase and, last but not least, it has been found to be far superior to CoQ10 and Idebenone! Need we say more?

PLANT STEM CELLS

The Apple Stem Cells started a revolution in skincare thanks in part to its intense research showing that a plant stem cell could actually combat aging, reducing and preventing wrinkles. With its immense popularity, a handful of new plant stem cells followed suit.

CoValence owns, along with the Apple Stem Cell, six (6) more additional beautiful and potent plant stem cells. To get the most marketing mileage out of a product that contains plant stem cells, we recommend that you formulate (*) with the Apple Stem Cells and then add one (1) or two (2) booster plant stem cells from the other six (6) choices…

Centella Asiatica Stem Cells… firms, restructures and improves skin tone and elasticity – offers relief for Rosacea sufferers.

 Echinacea Stem Cells… revitalizes dull, tired skin, restoring radiance – assists with collagen production.

Edelweiss Stem Cells… prevents collagen loss and aging of skin – benefits the eye contour area.

 Butterfly Bush Stem Cells… boosts skin’s defense towards environmental elements and protects against photoaging – offers MMPi and UV stress protection.

Lilac Stem Cells… reduces sebum, bacteria and inflammation – complete treatment for acne disorders.

Sea Fennel Stem Cells (**)… reinforces antioxidant protection, regulates keratogenesis and pigmentation disorders — complete anti-aging solution.

 (*) Plant Stem Cells work best in a cream or lotion base.

(**) The Sea Fennel Stem Cells are a new favorite of our R&D Team. Due to the ingredient’s lead-time our production time line could stretch up to 10 to 12 weeks. However, we feel the extra few weeks will be worth the wait!

May’s edition of Around the Water Cooler is targeting ‘out of the box’ ideas for preventing skin aging.

Step Away from the Bubble Gum (maybe)

Skin Inc. posted an article in March titled, “Could Gum-chewing Cause Wrinkles; Shorten Filler Lifespan?”. Based on beauty blogs, and not research, the article stated that there seems to be a gum-wrinkle connection due to the repetitive motion of chewing gum. However, on the flip-side, research has discovered that chewing gum can decrease stress and increases alertness. Hmm… is gum the culprit or repetition? According to Joel Schlessinger, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and cosmetic surgeon, “Repetition is the culprit.”

So, feel free to keep chewing gum to reduce stress… in moderation.

Stop – Drop – Relax

Have you felt stressed this last week? Last hour? According to www.motivationalplus.com some of the symptoms of a stressed woman are… guilt, weight gain, moody, anxiety, rushed, feeling overwhelmed and irritable. After some research, you also need to add… premature aging of skin. We (not our loved ones or co-workers) may be able to deal with the moodiness, but premature aging of the skin? No thank you!

An easy way to reduce stress is to – stop, drop and relax! We have found that spraying a room or work space with the Bio-Guard Mist (VLT0.6700) is an effective way to create a peaceful environment, reducing stress, even if the restful feeling only lasts a couple moments before someone needs you to save the world.

The Bio-Guard Mist is popular for promoting health (immune stimulating, antimicrobial, decongestant), wellness (stress relief, emotional balance, mental clarity, energizing) and environmental cleanliness. Therefore, to help promote beautiful, healthy skin… find and embrace an extra free moment in your day, spray Bio-Guard Mist and let the stress melt away. You are worth it!

Multi-Task Age Fighters

Enhancements in Cosmeceuticals makes it easier than ever to multi-task a skin care regimen and, concurrently, gives us more time to enjoy the rest of our day. We, at CoValence, are biased. We admit it. We love the products we make whether the products are custom or for our Vault. Each product has a story and a purpose, but we are especially fond of our products that fight age, not with one ingredient ‘jab’… but a ‘TKO’ combination of ingredients and benefits.

Here is a list of our Color Palette products which are perfect examples of multi-task age fighters…

• Sweet Pea Pink Cheek Gel (VLT0.7501)
• Bronze Glow Cheek Gel (VLT0.7502)
  
• Rose is a Rose Cheek Gel (VLT0.7503)
  
• Red Infusion Cheek Gel (VLT0.7504)
• Volu-9 Lip Tint (VLT0.8000)
• Hint of Tint Serum Anti-Age (Medium VLT0.4011, Light VLT0.4013)
• Hint of Tint Serum Clarifying (Medium VLT0.4012, Light VLT0.4014)

SIRTUIN – A Knight in Shining Armor

An easy way for one to remember the benefits of a Sirtuin is to picture a Knight in Shining Armor – bravely protecting the DNA of our cells from destruction of aging scavengers.

Sirtuins are protein enzymes that affect cellular metabolism which plays a vital role in the manifestations of aging. Research is ongoing in this area, but there has been successful approaches conducted towards finding methods that fuel sirtuins. Research has shown that there are effective sirtuin activating compounds which promote the cell’s resistance to stress factors as well as prolong a cell’s life.

Resveratrol and its derivative compounds (Giant Knotweed), are some of the most compelling activators of sirtuins – lengthening a cell’s lifespan. According to Jin Liu, “combining the resveratrol amalgam with the various specified ingredients achieves significant effects such as the following: inhibits fatty acid oxidation and helps to keep cell membranes in good condition.” In addition, the sirtuin activators are capable of stimulating collagen and elastin plus inhibiting inflammation, tyrosinase activity and glycosylation processes – an infantry of anti-aging knights.

It would be our pleasure to customize a product for you with sirtuin activators. Not interested in customizing? Our emollient Night Cream (VLT0.5004) was created to help activate sirtuins.

Color Palette Series

 It’s Spring — which makes it the perfect time to introduce our new Cosmeceutical make-up, highlighted in our Color-Palette series! If you did not receive our RSS last week, please take a moment to look at the Color-Palette blog.  We have introduced these Vault products at a special introductory price and quantity, for you to test with your clients. The Color-Pallete series, formulated with our Chiral-Color complex, has become one of our favorite  product groupings. It will probably be one of your favorites as well!  

March 2010 Ingredient Perspective

Not only have there been vast changes in the raw ingredient industry since we published our 2009 Corporate Report — it has accelerated! 

There are more mergers and acquisitions going on between ingredient manufacturers than last year. What happens when there is a new owner? They make changes. For a raw ingredient producer, that means dropping older ingredients where there is NO demand. Just as in the fashion industry – vendors drop old styles to bring in new.

Example: CoValence has used an Apple MMPI ingredient for nearly four years, yet the ingredient producers just told us last week they will no longer make this ingredient. What’s the reason for the discontinuation? Everyone wants Apple Stem Cells. End of story. We do not get a warning phase. We are simply told it is no longer available when we place an order.   

I will not go on and on as to every last ingredient horror story we have had to deal with as a manufacturer. I will say that from the early 1990’s to 2003 I can only recall one ingredient that we were not able to get, all of a sudden, and we could not find a replacement.  From 2004 up until present day I would say there have been around 30 or more ingredients that were suddenly discontinued. The reasons for the discontinuation are outlined in the earlier report.   

We, as the manufacturer, do our best to match or find a like ingredient to one that has been discontinued. Sometimes we are able to find a match, however many times we search without any success.   Unfortunately, the unsuccessful matches could be for an ingredient, exclusive to one raw manufacturer that gives a particular base feel or texture. Which means the product will not feel exactly how it did in its original state. Additionally, two raw ingredients can have the same INCI but feel very different. Raw suppliers have their own formulas for producing the raw ingredient just as we do on finished formulas. Scent is a particularly difficult issue for the same reason.

I want to add a second part involving use of natural preservatives. For years we have used Benzyl Alcohol instead of Parabens. Benzyl Alcohol works for many products as it slips in elegantly and does not disturb scent or texture. Similar to Parabens! However, Benzyl Alcohol does not provide a long shelf life which made sense with our earlier formulas considering they were not designed for a shelf-life over 12 months. Times and demands have changed, therefore we now formulate our products for a longer shelf-life (when the actives allow it).

During our formulation transition for a longer shelf life, global dominant EU regulations only allow for a low level of Benzyl Alcohol which means that other natural preservatives must be added to extend a shelf life.  Since the perfect natural option does not exist yet, the process of extending a shelf life while accepting client and global demands has been very difficult, especially since almost every natural option changes the scent, texture or color of a product. Even though there is still no natural “Paraben” preservative option that will extend a shelf life while also creating an elegant texture, we continue to work towards perfecting the combination of natural preservatives that are available. (See ‘Preservatives: Let’s Make A Deal’ below)

TO OUR CLIENTS:

I am asking you to understand that the skin care business has changed. It is not what it was 10 years ago, let alone 15-20 years ago! Sophisticated skin care, which was the domain of professional skin care, is now the domain of L’Oreal, Proctor & Gamble and other mass market brands. The raw ingredient manufacturers are in the driver’s seat! What was once a small industry of high performance, professional skin care, focused in the U.S. and filling the professional skin care shows, is now ruled by mass market. Look at the Olay®, Pro-X® ads on TV. The voiceover says “We have a ‘protocol’ with these products to give you results you don’t need to see a dermatologist for.” In addition, their magazine ads have about 10 doctors signing off to that fact that a dermatologist is not needed. Neutrogena is now going in the same marketing direction.     

The raw ingredient suppliers are rapidly changing, merging, and dropping ingredients to keep up with supplying larger quantities to the increasingly larger clientele that now want growth factors, brightening, peptides, everything that used to be the domain  of licensed professionals. They want to make larger batches of fewer products.  

WHAT NOW:

COVALENCE: We will notify you as soon as we know of a change and discuss alternatives. Believe me when I say we always try first to find an exact or close replacement. But, we also have to be careful that the replacement choice is sustainable, to the best of our knowledge.  It is not pleasant for either of us to be faced with change when we all have enough to deal with as business owners and managers!  But, these changes will continue to happen; therefore, wasting time and energy fighting it just detracts from everyone’s energy in getting on with the plan to deal with it. 

YOU: It will be a mistake for you to think it is possible to go back to the “old days” of a product being able to stay the same for years.  It will be imperative for you to develop a “Change Plan” going forward.  

This Change Plan should include:

(1). Educate your clients about the nature of these industry changes and the role of raw ingredient manufacturers.  Develop your own method of notifying clients on a change and refer them back to this information as to why if needed.   

(2). Larger batches of each SKU makes change costs easier to manage. You can continue to use up any product that is already packaged. You can add on a corrective hang-tag even, until the current packaging is used. Larger batches can help both sides absorb costs of a change.

(3). When a change needs to happen, CoValence will provide marketing information as to why the change had to happen and why the new option is better. 

This is the nature of skin care now and into the future. Like it or not, the speed of new ingredient roll-outs, the discontinuance of ingredients and competition from pro-mimic large players are all part of the landscape. The great news for you is that CoValence clients can still successfully compete because they can introduce new concepts faster than the large brands. Plus, we are continuing to work on our own ingredient Intellectual Property, which WE control, not ingredient vendors. Eventhough you must incorporate into your business plans the potential for rapid change, rest assured that we, your manufacturing partner, are doing everything in our power to make the inevitable change bearable.

All my best,

Linda

Preservatives: Let’s Make a Deal

People want to think that they could pick the preservative behind Door #1, Door #2 or Door #3 and it would easily replace Parabens.  That is completely NOT the case. Parabens were used for years as they slipped in un-noticed to ANY formula – they do not alter the smell,  texture  and they perfectly preserved.  Plus, let’s face it… they are cheap which is why the mass market still uses them. 

Unfortunately, there is nothing like Parabens whatsoever in the all-natural world yet.  Nothing.  The closest to it is Phenoxyethanol, which is considered safe by the CIR reports – the source that governs our industry. However, it does have limited use restrictions in the EU and the comments on Skin Deep apply to very, very strong doses – not to finished products.  As most everyone should know, strong doses of almost anything can irritate or burn the eyes (the Glycolic Acid MSDS states this), cause cancer (eating too much grilled meat or too much sun exposure),  irritate the lungs if breathed in (any powder), cause allergies (so does DL-Alpha Tocopherol which many companies use because it’s cheap), endocrine disruption,  neurotoxicity (but no one wants  to examine putting unnatural hormone replacement on the skin and what that does to disrupt the  body)!   If only there was a group that dared to attack the real enemies to health that individuals are faced with on a daily basis. 

There is no natural preservative out there can cover all bases like Parabens did.  They either are not strong enough for the shelf-life  needed for global distribution, make a product smell,  or change the texture,  on and on.  The perfect preservative that works just like Parabens—does not exist –yet. 

Certain websites will continue to disapprove of everything out there as that is their business.   However, savvy skin care professionals are right to keep tabs on these things and the  development of new options as the raw ingredient industry keeps developing them. But, they also need to keep perspective on the balance between the value of results-driven products like CoValence offers  and the time needed for the  evolvement of new and better preservative options. It has been the mandate of CoValence from the beginning, to not be stagnant or resist change,  as better options become available. As surprising as it may seem, there is not a perfect natural preservative hiding behind any door. However, CoValence is proficient at formulating with natural preservatives to achieve the longest shelf-life along with the most elegant texture possible. Times have changed and CoValence is embracing it!

Chirally Correct: Mother Nature’s Handy-Work

Most people are either right-handed, or left-handed. Right-handed people work better with their right hand. Left-handed people work better with their left hand. Very few people are ambidextrous, who can work equally well with their right or left hand.

Mother Nature is the same way…

Mother Nature produces most natural ingredients in their left-handed or right-handed form. Left-handed ingredients have their key elements arranged in a left-handed pattern (Levo, L; or Sinister, S), while right-handed ingredients are arranged in a right-handed geometry (Dextro, D; or Rectus, R). Technically, it is called chirality or asymmetry, and such ingredients are called chiral or asymmetric. Chiral or asymmetric ingredients rotate polarized natural light in either a clockwise or counterclockwise direction. Mother Nature prefers to produce left-handed ingredients. Natural amino acids, and human DNA itself, are all left-handed, for example. In general, such ingredients when produced by typical chemical synthesis tend to be a 50:50 mixture of both (D) and (L) molecules. Such mixtures are called racemic, or DL (50% of D-form + 50% of L-form = DL, or racemic); these do not rotate polarized natural light.

Just like people, these right-sided or left-sided natural ingredients perform uniquely in many cases. A left-handed ingredient can have greater skin wrinkles reduction benefit than a right-handed ingredient – Ascorbic Acid being a prime example. An (L) ingredient can be skin soothing, while the same ingredient in its D-form may cause skin irritation. If skin irritation property of D-form is greater than skin soothing property of L-form, then the DL-form may cause skin irritation overall. The use of pure 100% L-form in such cases is essential.

Natural ingredients included in a cosmetic product, that are either (L) or (D), may not absorb into skin at the same rate. If an (L) ingredient is absorbed more rapidly, then a 50:50 mixture of both (L) and (D) ingredient may have lesser skin beneficial affects compared to the use of 100% pure (L) ingredient in that product. If the ingredient has been made via synthesis in a pure (L) or (D) form, then both the natural and the synthetic would provide the same and equal biological properties. Synthetic ingredients are not bad, as long as they are nature-equivalent and have no undesirable chemical impurities.

CoValence utilizes the ingredients in their correct left (L) or right (D) handed biospatial form in all cosmetic formulations to provide optimal benefits.

CoValence has also developed a proprietary methodology to enhance the skin absorption of natural ingredients that have an undesirable handedness (chirally incorrect) form. You can only imagine what this technology can do when used for desirably handed (chirally correct) ingredients!

Most of you have probably heard of the term “Sharpen the Saw” from the 7 Habits of Highly Effective People (Stephen R. Covey). If the term is new to you, it is stating that we must always keep improving. If we do not have time to sharpen our saws, because we are too busy sawing trees, we will never be able to do a good job. How many trees have you cut down with a dull saw? When was the last time you sharpened your saw?

CoValence will help you sharpen your saws. We provide industry, ingredient and CoValence information through our weekly blogs and monthly SKINsider. We are also working on a new 2010 initiative which will put more ingredient selling points and industry trends into your hands to help you sell your products!

In addition to receiving our blogs and SKINsider, you can link to more industry magazines on our website. Here are a few excellent resources that we find to be excellent resources:

•  The Beauty Industry Report
•  Cosmetics Design
•  Cosmetic News Weekly 
• Happi Magazine 
• GCI Magazine 
• Women’s Wear Daily
•  The Wall Street Journal
•  Skin Inc.

 2010 is the time to step away from the trees and start sharpening your saw! CoValence is here to help!

Phycocyanin: A Novel Cosmetic Ingredient from Algae

Algae are photosynthetic organisms with a total of 2,530,000 species. Algae can be found with a diversity of forms and sizes, that can exist from unicellular microscopic organisms (microalgae) to multicellular of great size (macroalgae). Blue-green algae, also known as Cyanobacteria, are a very interesting natural source of new compounds with biological activity that could be successfully used as functional cosmetic ingredients. Blue-green algae are present in almost all aquatic ecosystems, including creeks, rivers, lakes and wetlands. It is the Phycocyanin Photosynthetic Pigment that gives Cyanobacteria their bluish color and the name “blue-green algae”. The antioxidant, anti-cancer, anti-inflammatory, neuroprotective, antimicrobial and radical scavenging activities of Phycocyanin from different Cyanobacteria are well documented, but they are rarely utilized.

Many adverse skin symptoms are accompanied or even caused by oxidative stress that is characterized by excessive formation of Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) that cannot be counteracted by the antioxidant defense systems of the human body. Therefore the therapeutic application of natural Phycocyanin with strong antioxidant activity will be more useful to keep the skin healthy and young. Among the antioxidative agents Phycocyanin appears to be promising. It exerts also anti-inflammatory, neuroprotective and hepatoprotective effects, which are closely connected with its antioxidative activity.

Antioxidative Properties of Phycocyanin Demonstrated by In Vitro Studies

Lipid peroxidation mediated by ROS is believed to be an important cause of destruction and damage to cell membranes, because a simple initiating event can result in the conversion of hundreds of fatty acids side chain into lipid peroxides, which alters the structural integrity and biochemical functions of membranes, which causes premature aging symptoms and wrinkles. Dr. Remirez and coworkers from Ozone Research Center, Cuba showed that Phycocyanin significantly inhibits the increase in lipid peroxides and protect the cell membrane damage. The researchers from McGill University, Canada (Jensen et al. 2001) found that the whole Cyanobacteria are suggested to stimulate the human immune system and possess antioxidant, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, anti-viral, anti-cancer, cholesterol- lowering effects and human cells growth enhancement mainly because of their Phycocyanin content in the cell.

We are always interested at CoValence in exploring the potential natural green ingredients in our cosmetic products knowing that if we have the best ingredients, so will our clients. The Phycocyanin pigment from the blue-green algae is a recent addition to our green cosmetic ingredient list.

Around the Water Cooler

Here are some quick summaries from important articles that we have recently read. You may find them interesting topics to discuss around the water cooler or in your next company meeting.

American Trends: The Year Ahead (by Andrea Nagel; from WWD Special Report Issue 01.29.10)

A key strategy in 2010 is toward “increased brand diversity” and “companies shifting their category focus.”

(*) How can CoValence help you with this strategy? We have over 3000 professional, OTC and retail skincare/personal care formulas that can be quickly blended to fit all of your strategies. Our clients sell in the professional market, high end department stores, beauty specialty stores, infomercials, on-line, etc. We can quickly help you switch gears if you want to try your hand at different distribution channels.

Injectable Procedures Up in 2009 (from Skin Inc.; posted 02.01.10)

Facial “injectable procedures appear to have experienced a boost during the 4^th quarter of 2009.”

(*) Do you have a product that is marketed as a complement to a facial injection procedure? If not, consider adding a new skincare product into your line up or simply ask CoValence to help you enhance any of your current products. A post-injection skincare product is a perfect opportunity to increase sales since injection procedures are increasing and individuals want to improve upon the injection results – thus getting more mileage out of the procedure.

2010 CoValence Innovations

As most of you know, CoValence has been manufacturing unique ingredient concept products since 1989.  Including the introduction of the concept of Chirality in skincare manufacturing, in the mid-90’s.  We are very interested in sophisticated, “mechanism of action” ingredients.  So, it is our pleasure to give you a glimpse of some of what we are working on for 2010:

• Mitoprotect^TM 2: CoValence Laboratories developed the Mitoprotect^TM technology with encapsulated ingredients to nourish and stimulate the mitochondrial support enzymes.  Mitoprotect™ 2 will be introduced soon. 
•  Plant Stem Cell (new – not on the market) technology for enhanced function of human stem cells via plant stem cell active components. 
• Enhanced Spin Trap technology  formulated as a superior anti-ROS/DNA protective complex
• Endothelin Antagonists for high efficiency skin lightening in human skin
• Enhanced Sirtuin complexes

Natural Fragrance

Fragrances are typically composed of synthetic chemical isolates, essential oils and other aroma compounds. Some of those chemical isolates used by the fragrance industry were synthesized to cut costs, but were originally inspired by ones found in nature, i.e. Eugenol; which is found in clove, cinnamon and bay essential oils

A natural fragrance uses chemical isolates extracted directly from a natural, botanical source, thus eliminating the presence of synthetically derived chemicals and solvents. The main benefit of using this method is that the finished blend is considered natural. However, an additional benefit is that the perfumer has the ability to create a dramatically more complex and richer blend without the restrictions associated with blending solely with essential oils. 

What’s OLD is now NEW

 
CoValence started selling our Anti-A.G.E. complex back in the 1990’s. The Anti-A.G.E. complex was designed to fight against “Advanced Glycation End-products”. Yet, why is there an article in BlogBeyondBeauty.com titled “Glycation, the new word in the anti-age fight“? Our struggle with the article (new product introduction) is not with the idea of fighting glycation… we simply question the term “new magic word“. Maybe the title should have been, “Don’t forget about Glycation“! 

You may be wondering how CoValence could customize a product for you with an Anti-A.G.E. complex? Simple. An Anti-A.G.E. complex typically slips into most products without changing the texture, scent or color. Contact your Account Executive if you would like to enhance your products with an Anti-A.G.E complex of your own.

Holiday Closures

CoValence will be closed the following days in observance of the holidays:
December 24
December 25
December 31
January 1, 2010

Our office will be open abbreviated hours from 7am to 4pm on the following days:
December 21-23, 28-30

CoValence Cares

CoValence employees participated in several donation drives this holiday season with great success!

Each year an angel tree is set up to benefit orphans, homeless children, migrant children, troubled youth, children in abuse shelters or whose parents are incarcerated, foster children and other underprivileged kids. The program was started by a realtor in the North Valley and has trees up in Walmarts around Arizona. CoValence employees placed toys and clothes under the tree to give more than 60 kids a memorable Christmas.

Over 600 pieces of non-perishable food were collected and donated to the Saint Matthews Food Bank – Matthew’s Crossing. Matthew’s Crossing offers assistance to families in need in the East Valley and feeds over 3,000 people each month.

We had great success with our Pet Food and Supply drive. CoValence donated towels, blankets, beds, food and office supplies to the East Valley Animal Shelter. The staff at the shelter was most appreciative and excited to receive office supplies, bleach and bottled water, items usually overlooked when donating to a Pet Drive.

Thanks CoValence employees for your generosity!

Marketing Opportunities

Would you like your products included in the gift bags at events like the 2010 Academy Awards Style Lounge as well as the upcoming Emmy Awards Style Lounge and NFL Super Bowl exclusive players event?

“Secret Room Events offers the most exclusive celebrity and media exposure for your company, producing events for major awards shows for you to display your products and services within reach of nominees, presenters, celebrities, stylists, media and press. Partner with Secret Room Events, exclusive brand-marketing and promotional event producers and you can participate in highly recognized events.”

Don’t delay, request your proposal and pricing today. Special branding packages are also available. Space is extremely limited. Email secretroomevents@yahoo.com for more info.

The skin lightening product market is continuing to gain momentum globally. Consequently, there is an increasing need for a new generation of skin care products with scientific basis that will give more promising results. At CoValence, our mission is to develop the highest scientific knowledge-based skin care products, therefore we are consistently utilizing and combining ingredients that trigger different functions in the skin.

Visible pigmentation of the skin, hair and eyes depends primarily on the functions of melanocytes, a very minor population of cells that specialize in the synthesis and distribution of the pigmented biopolymer melanin. The accurate migration, distribution, and functioning of melanoblasts/melanocytes determine the visible phenotype of organisms ranging from simple fungi to the most complex animal species.

In normal human skin, melanocytes maintain their constant population and steady melanogenic activity. But several external factors such as UV irradiation and chemical irritation enhance the proliferation and differentiation of melanocytes and subsequently lead to hyperpigmentation of the human skin. Each melanocyte contains five times more melanosomes in Asian skin than in Caucasian skin, and eight to ten times more melanosomes in dark skin compared with light skin. Endothelin-1 (ET-1) is a messenger protein produced by human keratinocyte acts as a strong cell multiplying (mitosis) agent on human melanocytes and plays an important role in ultra violet (UV) induced hyperpigmentation. Endothelin-1 (ET-1) has been reported to be expressed in human epidermis at both the gene and protein levels. ET-1 plays a pivotal role in ultraviolet B (UVB)-induced pigmentation due to its accentuated secretion after UVB irradiation and its function as a mitogen and as a melanogen for human melanocytes.

An Endothelin Antagonist (EA) is a compound that combines with the protein molecule embedded in the melanocyte membrane to inhibit the influence of endothelin protein toward melanin formation (melanogenesis), so that an instant and high efficiency skin lightening was achieved in human skin. The EA compounds normally don’t have any toxic or allergic symptoms towards human beings and possess increased penetrating ability due its low molecular weight (≥1000) nature. Endothelin antagonists are known to cause a four-times accelerated inhibition of the melanin synthesis compare to other plant based melonogenesis inhibitors. The EA compounds do not enter the melanosomes and cause cell cytoxicity to inhibit the tyrosinase or the oxidative processes. These compounds penetrate into deeper layers of the epidermis to inhibit endothelin protein, which is a safe method of skin lightening.

Endothelin Antagonist technology is a scientifically proven and safe method for human skin lightening.

Contact an Account Executive today to see how we can create a product, or two, using the advancement of EA technology for you.

(*) A product that uses EA technology is not considered an OTC drug unless there is a claim of ‘lightening’ the skin. A ‘brightening’ claim keeps the product within the boundaries of a Cosmeceutical, not a drug.

The long, thread-like DNA molecules that carry our genes are packed into chromosomes, the telomeres being the caps on their ends. If the telomeres are shortened, cells age. Conversely, if telomerase activity is high, telomere length is maintained, and cell longevity is increased. Telomeres don’t determine whether or not we live, but whether or not we age, which ultimately affects how long we live. Telomeres are often described as “clocks” that regulate aging. A number of age-related pathologies and premature aging syndromes are characterized by a faster-than-normal rate of telomere shortening, which suggests that telomere shortening is main cause of organismal aging. On the other hand, telomere shortening may also impair the ability of stem cells to regenerate tissues, thus leading to tissue failure and causes premature aging. The recent Nobel Prize (2009) for Physiology or Medicine was awarded to the scientists who have solved this major problem in biology that is “how chromosomes are protected by telomeres and the enzyme telomerase from degradation”. Research in this area has been intense and it is now known that the DNA sequence in the telomere attracts proteins that form a protective cap around the fragile ends of the DNA strands to increase cell life.

The cosmetics industry has witnessed a gradual shift in the use of molecular biology/biotechnology based techniques or ingredients. Among the molecular techniques/therapies, lengthening of telomeres, sirtuins protein assisted repair of DNA and regulation of genes that undergo altered expression with age and stem cells ability to maintain and repair the epidermal tissue plays a major role in modern skin care technology. What does the telomere/telomerase hypothesis mean for aging of the skin? Interestingly, aging phenomena are predominantly visible in the dermis as exemplified by changes in the extracellular matrix and/or expression pattern of the dermal fibroblasts. According to Dr. Maria A. Blasco of National Cancer Centre, Spain reported that telomere shortening also plays a major role in stem cell dysfunction. She proposed the stem cell theory for the role of telomeres and telomerase in aging. L-carnosine in particular appears to reduce or even reverse telomere damage and shortening rates, at least in cultured human diploid fibroblasts. A key Geron company patent indicates that the herbal extract of Astralagus is one of the powerful telomerase activator.Telomere shortening leads to a decreased ability of stem cells to leave the stem cell niche and to regenerate tissues. The mechanisms underlying the decreased mobilization of stem cells are still unknown but are likely to involve senescence (cells lose the ability to divide) in response to short telomeres. By helping to stabilize the telomere, we may be able to slow down the process of skin aging and provide the mechanism to assist our cells in “resetting their aging clocks.” The telomerase therapy will hold many promising possibilities for the field of anti-aging medicine in near future.

The discovery of telomerase enzyme led to new insights into cancer. A cancer cell divides continuously and up to 90% of human cancers require telomerase to do so. Scientists are looking for the answer to the question, “How can the lifespan of cells be prolonged without promoting a cancer or other diseases caused by cumulative genetic defects?”. These questions are the object of intensive research on telomeres at the present time. The mechanisms underlying the decreased mobilization of stem cells are still unknown but are likely to involve senescence (cells lose the ability to divide) in response to short telomeres. Even though our knowledge of telomerase on human experiments is in its infancy, telomerase therapy will hold many promising possibilities for the field of anti-aging medicine in future.

No documentation on CoValence Laboratories site should be used to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease. Any information given on CoValence Laboratories site is to be used for educational and information purposes only. It should never be substituted for the medical advice from your own doctor or other health care professionals.

Mitochondria are a key organelle to the health of skin, producing important proteins necessary to control the cell energy release process. Multiple factors affect the integrity of cell mitochondria, leading to loss of cell function, aging and apoptosis. In skin, this is expressed in the form of wrinkles, loss of tone, etc. Bio-gerontologist Dr. Denham Harman, the “Father of the free radical theory of aging” strongly proposed that mitochondria are the crucial components of cells whose rate of decline dictates the overall rate of aging.

To combat these effects, CoValence Laboratories developed the Mitoprotect^TM technology that contains mitochondria nourishing compounds to deliver anti-aging benefits. In the Mitoprotect^TM formulation the nano-encapsulated chirally active ingredients were used to nourish mitochondria and stimulate the mitochondrial support enzymes. The Oxygen Radical Absorbance Capacity (ORAC) technology developed by National Institute of Aging (NIA) in the National Institute of Health (NIH) showed that the Mitoprotect^TM antioxidant power is higher than most of the antioxidants in present use. In addition to the free radical scavenging ability, Mitoprotect^TM also proved to increase the crucial human skin stratum corneum enzymes, catalase, superoxide dismutase and tissue GSH. Our recent DNA shearing experiments confirmed the DNA protection ability of the Mitoprotect^TM complex.

• If you would prefer not to create a custom formula using Mitoprotect^TM, CoValence has developed several anti-aging private label formulas enhanced with Mitoprotect^TM that have quickly become some of our most popular formulas. These products are: Peptide Face Serum (VLT0.4000G), Peptide Face Cream (VLT0.5002G) and Antiox Serum (VLT0.4002G). Please contact an Account Executive if you would like to sample the products listed.
• To learn more about Mitoprotect^TM, read our research paper entitled ‘Mitochondrial Nourishment and Protection for Antiaging Effects’ in June 2009 edition of Cosmetics & Toiletries^® magazine.
• CoValence was a finalist for Cosmetics & Toiletries^® magazine’s Best New Technology award for the creation of Mitoprotect^TM technology.

Lyotropic Liquid Crystals

We learned in grade school that matter exists in three phases; solid, liquid and gas. We learned that as you add energy to matter, normally in the form of heat, things go from solid to liquid to gas, respectively. Exactly when and by whom liquid crystals were discovered is debatable. One historian claims that in 1888 Friedrich Reinitzer discovered liquid crystals. Reinitzer made an observation about cholesterol; “…this substance seemed to have two melting points. At 145.5°C the solid crystal melted into a cloudy liquid which existed until 178.5°C where the cloudiness suddenly disappeared, giving way to a clear transparent liquid.”

What was discovered is that this liquid still had an ordered state at the first (lower) melting point. The second (higher) melting point was where the substance lost the ordered state of liquid crystals and became a randomly disorganized flowing material, i.e., the conventional definition of a liquid. This concept of liquid crystals when applied to creams and lotions gives rise to unique esthetics as far as spreading, skin feel, etc.

“The molecules that make up lyotropic liquid crystals are surfactants consisting of two distinct parts: a polar, often ionic, head and a non-polar, often hydrocarbon tail.” These materials combine in numerous ways and arrangements that is dependent upon temperature and concentration. The various structures and properties that accompany each can be found here.

Olivem Liquid Crystal

Olivem^® 1000 has an INCI designation of Cetearyl Olivate (and) Sorbitan Olivate. It forms liquid crystals by placing its polar head into the aqueous phase and its non-polar tail into the lipidic phase. The result, when the concentration and temperature allow, is a unique stable three-dimensional bilayer/multilayer formation. The resulting cream or lotion has aesthesis that are not possible without liquid crystal technology. The products have a light texture without whitening, have a high skin absorption rate with high hydration properties and make for very stable emulsions.

This three-dimensional structure is very reminiscent of human skin. This bilayer/multilayer combination of Olive Oil and water is similar to our skin’s sebum and water matrix. This is a PEG-free, ethoxylate-free, natural emulsifier derived from Olive Oil. This soap-free product has great spreading properties and is a great skin moisturizer.

CoValence Formulates with Olivem^® 1000

CoValence frequently develops elegant face creams and lotions with our paraben-free Olivem Base (comprised of Olivem^® 1000) thanks in part to its green and scientific technologies. Please request the Olivem Base from your Account Executive the next time you develop a moisturizer with anti-age properties – you will not be disappointed.

Olay^® Pro-X Wrinkle Smoothing Cream: Pro or Pro-Mimic?

By now almost everyone has seen the massive marketing campaign from Olay^® Professional for their Pro-X product line. They claim that after 8 weeks of use their products are “as effective as the leading prescription brand regimen at reducing the look of fine lines and wrinkles.” Olay^® nods to our economic woes and suggests that you can cancel your appointment with the med-spa or pricey dermatologist and remarkably still get the same professional results with the economic friendly Pro-X regimen.

Can their claims be true? Let’s take a look at the Olay^® Pro-X Wrinkle Smoothing Cream ingredient list to see what makes up this product…

Water, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Niacinamide, Isohexadecane, Isopropyl Isostearate, Dimethiconol, Panthenol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-7, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Elastin, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Stearyl Alcohol, Polyacrylamide, Peg-100 Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Glucoside, Cetyl Alcohol, Benzyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Sucrose Polycottonseedate, Laureth-7, Stearic Acid, Peg-4 Dilaurate, Peg-4 Laurate, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, Peg-4, Decyl Glucoside, Titanium Dioxide, Tin Oxide, Lactic Acid, Citric Acid, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Propylparaben, Disodium Edta, Ammonium Polyacrylate, Mica.

Olay^® highlights the Niacinamide because it “strengthens the stratum corneum by increasing surface skin renewal and improving the moisture barrier to help reverse the appearance of past skin damage.” We agree with Olay^®’s use of Niacinamide. To the public it may seem like a new ingredient, however, CoValence has used Niacinamide for years.

Palmitoyl Dipeptide 7, is a peptide exclusive to Olay® for collagen production/skin soundness. We have seen in our formulas that SYN^®-COLL (Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5) and SYN^®-TACKS (Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-6) are better choices to boost collagen synthesis, reduce wrinkles and improve skin firmness.

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide 4, the peptide formerly known as Matrixyl^®, stimulates the synthesis of collagen, elastin and glucosaminoglycans. Sederma sold Matrixyl^®’s rights to Proctor & Gamble and turned around and made an improved Matrixyl^® 3000 for the rest of us. Matrixyl^® 3000 beat Matrixyl^® hands down in a clinical show-down for anti-wrinkle and lifting activity, as well as, improved tone and elasticity. We are okay with that.

Pro-X is full of PEGs, Parabens and Silicones which would be fine if you weren’t expected to put it on your face. The third ingredient (after water) is Dimethicone which is used in most make-up primers to fill in lines, wrinkles and prep for a flawless makeup finish, but it does little if anything to prevent and reduce wrinkles.

Parabens are used extensively with this line because the product would grow some really nasty bacteria and mold before it ever reached the consumer. We are not against the use of preservatives in products, to keep the variety of germs at bay. In fact we strive to use the most current and ‘friendly’ preservatives on the market.

Olay^®’s Money Back Guarantee sweetens their deal with an unconditional return policy if you remember after 2 months to keep the receipt, cut out the UPC code on the packaging, keep your empties and ship them. In reality the Money Back Guarantee doesn’t seem too special since most companies would stand by their products enough to return money to an unhappy consumer.

In conclusion, the Pro-X Wrinkle Smoothing Cream has been proven not to be a true professional product, but merely a Pro-Mimic. The fact is nothing replaces a trip to a professional for skin care advice and genuine professional products. After all, your skin is the largest organ you have and it should not be trusted to just anyone, including those with large visible marketing campaigns.

HBA Global Expo in NYC

CoValence is getting ready for the upcoming HBA Global Expo in New York City on September 15th, 16th and 17th. We will be located in the Private Label & Contract Manufacturing Pavilion, booth #2112. Registration is still open. Be sure to get your tickets and stop by our booth. See you there!

With the cosmetic industry at a crossroads, naturally based and organically based products are in the spotlight once again. The current question is whether or not to include some organically derived waters as “Organic” on the label. Read more!

Fun ORAC Facts

ORAC stands for Oxygen Radical Absorbance Capacity. It is designed to measure the level of an antioxidant’s protection capability and potential duration. The ORAC score measures the degree of inhibition of oxidative stress contributors in and on the body. ORAC is an extremely precise testing method therefore, the numerical figure given by an ORAC test directly represents the antioxidants capability in our immune system.

How can Antioxidants and ORAC benefit us in skin care? Oxidative stress can accelerate the aging process of cells therefore, the deployment of a potent antioxidant should help reverse the aging process by scavenging the free radicals on and in our skin.

This is where ORACsc (ORAC Skin Care) comes in to play – ORACsc is a patent pending method of testing an antioxidants activity against the 4 most important free radicals found in the human skin – Hydroxyl, Peroxyl, Peroxynitrite and Singlet Oxygen. Finally — we have a test that should help us understand how the antioxidants we deploy will benefit our skin.

Green or Not to Green…

It isn’t easy being “green” (just ask Kermit). Even though buzz words like “natural” and “organic” may be all the rage, using natural and organic ingredients in products does not necessarily make the products green. Actually, many claim that using natural or organic ingredients could lead to deforestation which could also be far more damaging to the planet than using a petroleum based product. We are not sure what other manufacturers believe, but CoValence believes that natural and organic ingredients should be used in products if harvesting of the ingredient is appropriately managed. To read more on Organic vs. Natural click here.

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