SKINsider – May 09
5.21.09 | 9:23 am
Mitoprotect™ in Cosmetics & Toiletries
CoValence would like to congratulate our biochemist, KG Sabarinathan, PhD, on his article being published in the June 2009 edition of Cosmetics & Toiletries!
As you will read in the article, one of CoValence’s goals is to continue to develop new ingredient technologies that will have a positive effect on the skincare industry, in addition to developing skincare products that surpass what one can currently get from other private label and custom contract manufacturers.
Please contact us today and we will have one of our Account Executives help you create product(s) that will fit perfectly within your current product offerings.
New Vault Bases
CoValence is very pleased to introduce two new outstanding base formulas that target mature, aged skin.
Mature Cream Base (VLT0.5050) targets thin and fragile skin experienced by women who are 60+. Our base combines two key ingredients, Essenskin™ which fortifies and restructures the thin and fragile skin. The skin regains its density, firmness, elasticity and smoothness and Supersterol which conditions the skin, repairs and moisturizes.
Chest and Neck Cream Base (VLT0.5052) was formulated to instantly tighten and firm the skin while also reducing the signs of aging that frequently occur on the neck and chest areas. Our most neglected areas. We’ve combined Volufiline which promotes body volume by a cosmetic lipofilling-like effect. Stimulates adipocyte differentiation and proliferation, and promotes lipid storage leading to anincrease of adipocyte volume in the fatty tissue and Dynalift. This gives immediate tightening and tensing effect.
These base formulas have quickly become crowd favorites, but you can enhance them further by adding in one or two key ingredients that support the product’s goal as well as your company’s philosophy. Not sure which ingredients to add? No problem. Our skilled Account Executives will help you find the perfect target ingredients.
Contact an Account Executive to set up an account (if necessary) as well as to receive the White Papers and to receive samples of the bases (limited supply).
Skin Care Manufacturing in 2009
Over the past 3-4 years, there has been a rapid convergence of several factors that have substantially implicated the raw ingredient industry and therefore the very nature of the skin care industry itself. Manufacturers and brands have, in turn, been affected.
These factors have imposed change and some fragmentation amidst the ingredient industry leading to more competition, mergers and buy-outs. As a consequence, CoValence has had no choice but to absorb and manage this evolution of the vendors’ decisions and practices. While some changes have proven beneficial, others have presented complex navigational issues that have markedly impacted aspects of our manufacturing, as well as skin care as a whole. The following information it to briefly illustrate these key factors:
INGREDIENT VENDORS & MASS MARKET vs. PRO BRANDS
Up until a few years ago, ingredient vendors promoted novel therapeutic ingredients, such as peptides, primarily to professional brands. Since mass market brands weren’t capitalizing on professional ingredients, ingredient pricing and minimums were favorable to the smaller-scale professional manufacturer. But over the few years, mass market brands (think Oil of Olay) have shifted to mimicking professional brands, and thus have put a greater demand on professional ingredient supplies. While one would think this evolvement would lower ingredient pricing, the result has been the opposite – many ingredients have reached a premium, with pricing and minimums skewed to favor the consumption of mass manufacturers. As we have built good supplier relationships, we are still able to help our clients be competitive in the professional arena. However, ingredient costs and minimums will continue to have pressure from factors separate from the economy, including the following discussion points.
INGREDIENT VENDORS vs. GREEN MOVEMENT & NATURAL/ORGANIC MANUFACTURING
The demand for natural and organic ingredients has escalated exponentially over the past few years, as have the Certification groups vying to have their stamp on natural/organic products— NOP, Ecocert and numerous others. This has put an immense strain on availability – natural and organic ingredients have a finite supply and are reliant on consistent sustainability. Additionally, mass market brands are going the green route, adding stress to the supply. As a result, these ingredients have volatile pricing – costs rollercoaster between harvests, seasons and manufacturing needs. There is immense pressure on ingredient vendors to keep up with demands and to create or source new innovative ingredients. Manufacturers, in turn, must do their best to adapt to the fluctuations in the natural and organic ingredient market – as fallout from the recent trends, keeping costs and supplies level and predictable for our clients has become exceedingly difficult.
RAW INGREDIENT VENDORS vs GLOBAL REGULATIONS
Recent global regulations (such as the EU) have put an enormous strain on ingredient production and availability. Due to the required transparency of raw ingredient formulas in export documentation, ingredient vendors have been forced to disclose proprietary details. Some ingredients have been denied export – as a result, ingredient vendors have in some instances chosen to discontinue ingredients. Some ingredient vendors have denied us paperwork, forcing us to discontinue that ingredient. Either way, CoValence has lost access to a variety of ingredients the last couple years in particular.
Ingredient costs have also been affected by global regulations. Ingredient vendors have had to reformulate some ingredients in order to get them approved for export, as well as supply far larger amounts of paperwork than in the past. These costs are passed to manufacturers. Another factor to keep in mind for the near future, is the potential impact of REACH on ingredient vendors. REACH is a new EU regulation on chemicals and their safe use. If all goes according to plan, this has the potential to reshape the structure of raw material suppliers due to the enormous registration costs involved. There could be some additional shake-out of suppliers from this initiative. Our current ingredient vendor screening process helps us have reasonable control of supply, compliance issues, costs, etc. We’ll inform our clients as quickly as possible of any changes that impact them.
IN SUMMATION
We’ve worked to adapt to all of these factors in a relatively short period of time. We’ve had vendor surprises and bleeps along the way. We’ve managed these as efficiently as possible and re-processed as necessary We’ve added new ingredients (organics), new formulating capabilities, new department (global regs and certifications), new cost analysis systems– to address these broad skin care industry changes. Our core competency has always been developing and manufacturing products that are both cosmeceutical and natural. We’ve further enhanced these capabilities to ensure our clients can succeed, in an industry that is not only increasingly competitive, but structurally evolving in ways that are game-changing.
Tags: chest, Ecocert, green, ingredients, international, manufacturing, mass market, mature, Mitoprotect, natural, neck, NOP, organic, Vault, vendors

