Most of you have probably heard of the term “Sharpen the Saw” from the 7 Habits of Highly Effective People (Stephen R. Covey). If the term is new to you, it is stating that we must always keep improving. If we do not have time to sharpen our saws, because we are too busy sawing trees, we will never be able to do a good job. How many trees have you cut down with a dull saw? When was the last time you sharpened your saw?

CoValence will help you sharpen your saws. We provide industry, ingredient and CoValence information through our weekly blogs and monthly SKINsider. We are also working on a new 2010 initiative which will put more ingredient selling points and industry trends into your hands to help you sell your products!

In addition to receiving our blogs and SKINsider, you can link to more industry magazines on our website. Here are a few excellent resources that we find to be excellent resources:

•  The Beauty Industry Report
•  Cosmetics Design
•  Cosmetic News Weekly 
• Happi Magazine 
• GCI Magazine 
• Women’s Wear Daily
•  The Wall Street Journal
•  Skin Inc.

 2010 is the time to step away from the trees and start sharpening your saw! CoValence is here to help!

Phycocyanin: A Novel Cosmetic Ingredient from Algae

Algae are photosynthetic organisms with a total of 2,530,000 species. Algae can be found with a diversity of forms and sizes, that can exist from unicellular microscopic organisms (microalgae) to multicellular of great size (macroalgae). Blue-green algae, also known as Cyanobacteria, are a very interesting natural source of new compounds with biological activity that could be successfully used as functional cosmetic ingredients. Blue-green algae are present in almost all aquatic ecosystems, including creeks, rivers, lakes and wetlands. It is the Phycocyanin Photosynthetic Pigment that gives Cyanobacteria their bluish color and the name “blue-green algae”. The antioxidant, anti-cancer, anti-inflammatory, neuroprotective, antimicrobial and radical scavenging activities of Phycocyanin from different Cyanobacteria are well documented, but they are rarely utilized.

Many adverse skin symptoms are accompanied or even caused by oxidative stress that is characterized by excessive formation of Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) that cannot be counteracted by the antioxidant defense systems of the human body. Therefore the therapeutic application of natural Phycocyanin with strong antioxidant activity will be more useful to keep the skin healthy and young. Among the antioxidative agents Phycocyanin appears to be promising. It exerts also anti-inflammatory, neuroprotective and hepatoprotective effects, which are closely connected with its antioxidative activity.

Antioxidative Properties of Phycocyanin Demonstrated by In Vitro Studies

Lipid peroxidation mediated by ROS is believed to be an important cause of destruction and damage to cell membranes, because a simple initiating event can result in the conversion of hundreds of fatty acids side chain into lipid peroxides, which alters the structural integrity and biochemical functions of membranes, which causes premature aging symptoms and wrinkles. Dr. Remirez and coworkers from Ozone Research Center, Cuba showed that Phycocyanin significantly inhibits the increase in lipid peroxides and protect the cell membrane damage. The researchers from McGill University, Canada (Jensen et al. 2001) found that the whole Cyanobacteria are suggested to stimulate the human immune system and possess antioxidant, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, anti-viral, anti-cancer, cholesterol- lowering effects and human cells growth enhancement mainly because of their Phycocyanin content in the cell.

We are always interested at CoValence in exploring the potential natural green ingredients in our cosmetic products knowing that if we have the best ingredients, so will our clients. The Phycocyanin pigment from the blue-green algae is a recent addition to our green cosmetic ingredient list.

Around the Water Cooler

Here are some quick summaries from important articles that we have recently read. You may find them interesting topics to discuss around the water cooler or in your next company meeting.

American Trends: The Year Ahead (by Andrea Nagel; from WWD Special Report Issue 01.29.10)

A key strategy in 2010 is toward “increased brand diversity” and “companies shifting their category focus.”

(*) How can CoValence help you with this strategy? We have over 3000 professional, OTC and retail skincare/personal care formulas that can be quickly blended to fit all of your strategies. Our clients sell in the professional market, high end department stores, beauty specialty stores, infomercials, on-line, etc. We can quickly help you switch gears if you want to try your hand at different distribution channels.

Injectable Procedures Up in 2009 (from Skin Inc.; posted 02.01.10)

Facial “injectable procedures appear to have experienced a boost during the 4^th quarter of 2009.”

(*) Do you have a product that is marketed as a complement to a facial injection procedure? If not, consider adding a new skincare product into your line up or simply ask CoValence to help you enhance any of your current products. A post-injection skincare product is a perfect opportunity to increase sales since injection procedures are increasing and individuals want to improve upon the injection results – thus getting more mileage out of the procedure.

2010 CoValence Innovations

As most of you know, CoValence has been manufacturing unique ingredient concept products since 1989.  Including the introduction of the concept of Chirality in skincare manufacturing, in the mid-90’s.  We are very interested in sophisticated, “mechanism of action” ingredients.  So, it is our pleasure to give you a glimpse of some of what we are working on for 2010:

• Mitoprotect^TM 2: CoValence Laboratories developed the Mitoprotect^TM technology with encapsulated ingredients to nourish and stimulate the mitochondrial support enzymes.  Mitoprotect™ 2 will be introduced soon. 
•  Plant Stem Cell (new – not on the market) technology for enhanced function of human stem cells via plant stem cell active components. 
• Enhanced Spin Trap technology  formulated as a superior anti-ROS/DNA protective complex
• Endothelin Antagonists for high efficiency skin lightening in human skin
• Enhanced Sirtuin complexes

Natural Fragrance

Fragrances are typically composed of synthetic chemical isolates, essential oils and other aroma compounds. Some of those chemical isolates used by the fragrance industry were synthesized to cut costs, but were originally inspired by ones found in nature, i.e. Eugenol; which is found in clove, cinnamon and bay essential oils

A natural fragrance uses chemical isolates extracted directly from a natural, botanical source, thus eliminating the presence of synthetically derived chemicals and solvents. The main benefit of using this method is that the finished blend is considered natural. However, an additional benefit is that the perfumer has the ability to create a dramatically more complex and richer blend without the restrictions associated with blending solely with essential oils. 

What’s OLD is now NEW

 
CoValence started selling our Anti-A.G.E. complex back in the 1990′s. The Anti-A.G.E. complex was designed to fight against “Advanced Glycation End-products”. Yet, why is there an article in BlogBeyondBeauty.com titled “Glycation, the new word in the anti-age fight“? Our struggle with the article (new product introduction) is not with the idea of fighting glycation… we simply question the term “new magic word“. Maybe the title should have been, “Don’t forget about Glycation“! 

You may be wondering how CoValence could customize a product for you with an Anti-A.G.E. complex? Simple. An Anti-A.G.E. complex typically slips into most products without changing the texture, scent or color. Contact your Account Executive if you would like to enhance your products with an Anti-A.G.E complex of your own.

There has been a lot of buzz around resveratrol lately.  In fact, Arch Personal Care received the 2009 BSB Innovation Prize  in the ‘naturals’ categoryfor their Metabiotics™ Resveratrol . 

Resveratrol is a polyphenolic antioxidant and phytoalexin commonly found in red grapes and wine that CoValence has formulated with for years. Our resveratrol is a stable form derived from Giant Knotweed (Polygonum Cuspidatum) which is the richest natural source of resveratrol available.  It is commonly known that resveratrol has potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, helping protect skin from UV damage, but the buzz around resveratrol these days is that resveratrol acts as an activator of Sirtuins, increasing cellular life.

Ask today how you can incorporate Resveratrol into your next development project.

INCI – Polygonum Cuspidatum (Giant Knotweed) Extract

Resveratrol can be found in the Vault’s Night Cream (VLT0.5004G). Contact your Account Executive for more information on Resveratrol and the Night Cream.

Mature Skin Cream

Do you feel as if your skin type has been forgotten? Rest assured, CoValence addresses all skin types.

CoValence offers a rich cream base intended for mature skin. Our Mature Skin Cream with Essenskin™ targets thin and fragile skin experienced by women 60+. This formula is enriched with ingredients that plump and firm skin.

Mature Skin Cream (VLT0.5050) repairs, restructures and fortifies fragile mature skin with Essenskin™

Peptide Solution Pads

Just when you thought we have exhausted all ways to use peptides in a formula (i.e. serum, cream, toner)… CoValence is now offering a system that combines the effectiveness of three peptides with the convenience of wipes/pads: Peptide Solution Pads.

Your skin will reap the anti-age benefits from the actives while enjoying the quick application process that fits into any busy schedule – at home, office or traveling.

Peptide Solution Pads (VLT0.2010) – improved collagen synthesis, reduction in wrinkles and increased firmness of the skin. Carnosine (L) and Thioctic (R-lipoic) Acid adds the right balance of antioxidants.

A New Biotech Cosmetic Formulation 

Mitochondria are a key organelle to the health of skin, producing important proteins necessary to control the cell energy release process. Multiple factors affect the integrity of cell mitochondria, leading to loss of cell function, aging and apoptosis. In skin, this is expressed in the form of wrinkles, loss of tone, etc. Bio-gerontologist Dr. Denham Harman, the “Father of the free radical theory of aging” strongly proposed that mitochondria are the crucial components of cells whose rate of decline dictates the overall rate of aging.

To combat these effects, CoValence Laboratories developed the Mitoprotect^TM technology that contains mitochondria nourishing compounds to deliver anti-aging benefits. In the Mitoprotect^TM formulation the nano-encapsulated chirally active ingredients were used to nourish mitochondria and stimulate the mitochondrial support enzymes. The Oxygen Radical Absorbance Capacity (ORAC) technology developed by National Institute of Aging (NIA) in the National Institute of Health (NIH) showed that the Mitoprotect^TM antioxidant power is higher than most of the antioxidants in present use. In addition to the free radical scavenging ability, Mitoprotect^TM also proved to increase the crucial human skin stratum corneum enzymes, catalase, superoxide dismutase and tissue GSH. Our recent DNA shearing experiments confirmed the DNA protection ability of the Mitoprotect^TM complex.

• If you would prefer not to create a custom formula using Mitoprotect^TM, CoValence has developed several anti-aging private label formulas enhanced with Mitoprotect^TM that have quickly become some of our most popular formulas. These products are: Peptide Face Serum (VLT0.4000G), Peptide Face Cream (VLT0.5002G) and Antiox Serum (VLT0.4002G). Please contact an Account Executive if you would like to sample the products listed.
• To learn more about Mitoprotect^TM, read our research paper entitled ‘Mitochondrial Nourishment and Protection for Antiaging Effects’ in June 2009 edition of Cosmetics & Toiletries^® magazine.
• CoValence was a finalist for Cosmetics & Toiletries^® magazine’s Best New Technology award for the creation of Mitoprotect^TM technology.

Lyotropic Liquid Crystals

We learned in grade school that matter exists in three phases; solid, liquid and gas. We learned that as you add energy to matter, normally in the form of heat, things go from solid to liquid to gas, respectively. Exactly when and by whom liquid crystals were discovered is debatable. One historian claims that in 1888 Friedrich Reinitzer discovered liquid crystals. Reinitzer made an observation about cholesterol; “…this substance seemed to have two melting points. At 145.5°C the solid crystal melted into a cloudy liquid which existed until 178.5°C where the cloudiness suddenly disappeared, giving way to a clear transparent liquid.”

What was discovered is that this liquid still had an ordered state at the first (lower) melting point. The second (higher) melting point was where the substance lost the ordered state of liquid crystals and became a randomly disorganized flowing material, i.e., the conventional definition of a liquid. This concept of liquid crystals when applied to creams and lotions gives rise to unique esthetics as far as spreading, skin feel, etc.

“The molecules that make up lyotropic liquid crystals are surfactants consisting of two distinct parts: a polar, often ionic, head and a non-polar, often hydrocarbon tail.” These materials combine in numerous ways and arrangements that is dependent upon temperature and concentration. The various structures and properties that accompany each can be found here.

Olivem Liquid Crystal

Olivem^® 1000 has an INCI designation of Cetearyl Olivate (and) Sorbitan Olivate. It forms liquid crystals by placing its polar head into the aqueous phase and its non-polar tail into the lipidic phase. The result, when the concentration and temperature allow, is a unique stable three-dimensional bilayer/multilayer formation. The resulting cream or lotion has aesthesis that are not possible without liquid crystal technology. The products have a light texture without whitening, have a high skin absorption rate with high hydration properties and make for very stable emulsions.

This three-dimensional structure is very reminiscent of human skin. This bilayer/multilayer combination of Olive Oil and water is similar to our skin’s sebum and water matrix. This is a PEG-free, ethoxylate-free, natural emulsifier derived from Olive Oil. This soap-free product has great spreading properties and is a great skin moisturizer.

CoValence Formulates with Olivem^® 1000

CoValence frequently develops elegant face creams and lotions with our paraben-free Olivem Base (comprised of Olivem^® 1000) thanks in part to its green and scientific technologies. Please request the Olivem Base from your Account Executive the next time you develop a moisturizer with anti-age properties – you will not be disappointed.

Olay® Pro-X Wrinkle Smoothing Cream: Pro or Pro-Mimic?

By now almost everyone has seen the massive marketing campaign from Olay^® Professional for their Pro-X product line. They claim that after 8 weeks of use their products are “as effective as the leading prescription brand regimen at reducing the look of fine lines and wrinkles.” Olay^® nods to our economic woes and suggests that you can cancel your appointment with the med-spa or pricey dermatologist and remarkably still get the same professional results with the economic friendly Pro-X regimen.

Can their claims be true? Let’s take a look at the Olay^® Pro-X Wrinkle Smoothing Cream ingredient list to see what makes up this product…

Water, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Niacinamide, Isohexadecane, Isopropyl Isostearate, Dimethiconol, Panthenol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-7, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Elastin, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Stearyl Alcohol, Polyacrylamide, Peg-100 Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Glucoside, Cetyl Alcohol, Benzyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Sucrose Polycottonseedate, Laureth-7, Stearic Acid, Peg-4 Dilaurate, Peg-4 Laurate, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, Peg-4, Decyl Glucoside, Titanium Dioxide, Tin Oxide, Lactic Acid, Citric Acid, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Propylparaben, Disodium Edta, Ammonium Polyacrylate, Mica.

Olay^® highlights the Niacinamide because it “strengthens the stratum corneum by increasing surface skin renewal and improving the moisture barrier to help reverse the appearance of past skin damage.” We agree with Olay^®’s use of Niacinamide. To the public it may seem like a new ingredient, however, CoValence has used Niacinamide for years.

Palmitoyl Dipeptide 7, is a peptide exclusive to Olay® for collagen production/skin soundness. We have seen in our formulas that SYN^®-COLL (Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5) and SYN^®-TACKS (Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-6) are better choices to boost collagen synthesis, reduce wrinkles and improve skin firmness.

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide 4, the peptide formerly known as Matrixyl^®, stimulates the synthesis of collagen, elastin and glucosaminoglycans.  Sederma sold Matrixyl^®’s rights to Proctor & Gamble and turned around and made an improved Matrixyl^® 3000 for the rest of us. Matrixyl^® 3000 beat Matrixyl^® hands down in a clinical show-down for anti-wrinkle and lifting activity, as well as, improved tone and elasticity. We are okay with that.

Pro-X is full of PEGs, Parabens and Silicones which would be fine if you weren’t expected to put it on your face. The third ingredient (after water) is Dimethicone which is used in most make-up primers to fill in lines, wrinkles and prep for a flawless makeup finish, but it does little if anything to prevent and reduce wrinkles.

Parabens are used extensively with this line because the product would grow some really nasty bacteria and mold before it ever reached the consumer. We are not against the use of preservatives in products, to keep the variety of germs at bay. In fact we strive to use the most current and ‘friendly’ preservatives on the market.

Olay^®’s Money Back Guarantee sweetens their deal with an unconditional return policy if you remember after 2 months to keep the receipt, cut out the UPC code on the packaging, keep your empties and ship them. In reality the Money Back Guarantee doesn’t seem too special since most companies would stand by their products enough to return money to an unhappy consumer.

In conclusion, the Pro-X Wrinkle Smoothing Cream has been proven not to be a true professional product, but merely a Pro-Mimic. The fact is nothing replaces a trip to a professional for skin care advice and genuine professional products. After all, your skin is the largest organ you have and it should not be trusted to just anyone, including those with large visible marketing campaigns.

HBA Global Enpo in NYC

CoValence is getting ready for the upcoming HBA Global Expo in New York City on September 15th, 16th and 17th. We will be located in the Private Label & Contract Manufacturing Pavilion, booth #2112. Registration is still open. Be sure to get your tickets and stop by our booth. See you there!

With the cosmetic industry at a crossroads, naturally based and organically based products are in the spotlight once again. The current question is whether or not to include some organically derived waters as “Organic” on the label. Read more!

Fun ORAC Facts

ORAC stands for Oxygen Radical Absorbance Capacity. It is designed to measure the level of an antioxidant’s protection capability and potential duration. The ORAC score measures the degree of inhibition of oxidative stress contributors in and on the body. ORAC is an extremely precise testing method therefore, the numerical figure given by an ORAC test directly represents the antioxidants capability in our immune system.

How can Antioxidants and ORAC benefit us in skin care? Oxidative stress can accelerate the aging process of cells therefore, the deployment of a potent antioxidant should help reverse the aging process by scavenging the free radicals on and in our skin.

This is where ORACsc (ORAC Skin Care) comes in to play – ORACsc is a patent pending method of testing an antioxidants activity against the 4 most important free radicals found in the human skin – Hydroxyl, Peroxyl, Peroxynitrite and Singlet Oxygen. Finally — we have a test that should help us understand how the antioxidants we deploy will benefit our skin.

Green or Not to Green…

It isn’t easy being “green” (just ask Kermit). Even though buzz words like “natural” and “organic” may be all the rage, using natural and organic ingredients in products does not necessarily make the products green. Actually, many claim that using natural or organic ingredients could lead to deforestation which could also be far more damaging to the planet than using a petroleum based product. We are not sure what other manufacturers believe, but CoValence believes that natural and organic ingredients should be used in products if harvesting of the ingredient is appropriately managed. To read more on Organic vs. Natural click here.

]]> http://www.covalence.com/news-wire/skinsider-june-09/feed/ 0 http://www.covalence.com/news-wire/the-vault-april09/ http://www.covalence.com/news-wire/the-vault-april09/#comments Tue, 21 Apr 2009 22:06:18 +0000 Lauren http://www.covalence.com/?p=171 The Vault is a growing selection of private label formulas from CoValence available for bulk purchase.

Spring Serums

We are excited to introduce a new variety of serums to The Vault.   The following serums are available during the month of May with a low minimum order of 1 gallon and a 10% discount.  Samples are available upon request.

Triple C Serum (SKU#VLT0.4006G) is a brilliant combination of three types of Vitamin C for optimal brightening, collagen synthesis and antioxidants benefits.

Vita A Serum (SKU# VLT0.4003G) is a smoothing retinol serum that promotes new tissue growth combat wrinkles and fine lines.

Vita A Alternative Serum (SKU# VLT0.4004G) is a gentle retinol free serum that provides the benefits of retinol.  Contains a special complex that increase the production of collagen, hyaluronic acid and epidermal growth factors.

Private Stock Peptide Serum (SKU# VLT0.4007G) is the ultimate peptide serum.  It contains the maximum recommended amount of Argireline™ and Matrixyl 3000™ with added anti inflammatory and antioxidant benefits of white tea.

DAYSPA
Creative Age Publications
7628 Densmore Ave.
Van Nuys, CA 91406

Submissions are due by March 20, 2009. We hope to see your product in DAYSPA magazine!