A New Biotech Cosmetic Formulation 

Mitochondria are a key organelle to the health of skin, producing important proteins necessary to control the cell energy release process. Multiple factors affect the integrity of cell mitochondria, leading to loss of cell function, aging and apoptosis. In skin, this is expressed in the form of wrinkles, loss of tone, etc. Bio-gerontologist Dr. Denham Harman, the “Father of the free radical theory of aging” strongly proposed that mitochondria are the crucial components of cells whose rate of decline dictates the overall rate of aging.

To combat these effects, CoValence Laboratories developed the Mitoprotect^TM technology that contains mitochondria nourishing compounds to deliver anti-aging benefits. In the Mitoprotect^TM formulation the nano-encapsulated chirally active ingredients were used to nourish mitochondria and stimulate the mitochondrial support enzymes. The Oxygen Radical Absorbance Capacity (ORAC) technology developed by National Institute of Aging (NIA) in the National Institute of Health (NIH) showed that the Mitoprotect^TM antioxidant power is higher than most of the antioxidants in present use. In addition to the free radical scavenging ability, Mitoprotect^TM also proved to increase the crucial human skin stratum corneum enzymes, catalase, superoxide dismutase and tissue GSH. Our recent DNA shearing experiments confirmed the DNA protection ability of the Mitoprotect^TM complex.

• If you would prefer not to create a custom formula using Mitoprotect^TM, CoValence has developed several anti-aging private label formulas enhanced with Mitoprotect^TM that have quickly become some of our most popular formulas. These products are: Peptide Face Serum (VLT0.4000G), Peptide Face Cream (VLT0.5002G) and Antiox Serum (VLT0.4002G). Please contact an Account Executive if you would like to sample the products listed.
• To learn more about Mitoprotect^TM, read our research paper entitled ‘Mitochondrial Nourishment and Protection for Antiaging Effects’ in June 2009 edition of Cosmetics & Toiletries^® magazine.
• CoValence was a finalist for Cosmetics & Toiletries^® magazine’s Best New Technology award for the creation of Mitoprotect^TM technology.

Lyotropic Liquid Crystals

We learned in grade school that matter exists in three phases; solid, liquid and gas. We learned that as you add energy to matter, normally in the form of heat, things go from solid to liquid to gas, respectively. Exactly when and by whom liquid crystals were discovered is debatable. One historian claims that in 1888 Friedrich Reinitzer discovered liquid crystals. Reinitzer made an observation about cholesterol; “…this substance seemed to have two melting points. At 145.5°C the solid crystal melted into a cloudy liquid which existed until 178.5°C where the cloudiness suddenly disappeared, giving way to a clear transparent liquid.”

What was discovered is that this liquid still had an ordered state at the first (lower) melting point. The second (higher) melting point was where the substance lost the ordered state of liquid crystals and became a randomly disorganized flowing material, i.e., the conventional definition of a liquid. This concept of liquid crystals when applied to creams and lotions gives rise to unique esthetics as far as spreading, skin feel, etc.

“The molecules that make up lyotropic liquid crystals are surfactants consisting of two distinct parts: a polar, often ionic, head and a non-polar, often hydrocarbon tail.” These materials combine in numerous ways and arrangements that is dependent upon temperature and concentration. The various structures and properties that accompany each can be found here.

Olivem Liquid Crystal

Olivem^® 1000 has an INCI designation of Cetearyl Olivate (and) Sorbitan Olivate. It forms liquid crystals by placing its polar head into the aqueous phase and its non-polar tail into the lipidic phase. The result, when the concentration and temperature allow, is a unique stable three-dimensional bilayer/multilayer formation. The resulting cream or lotion has aesthesis that are not possible without liquid crystal technology. The products have a light texture without whitening, have a high skin absorption rate with high hydration properties and make for very stable emulsions.

This three-dimensional structure is very reminiscent of human skin. This bilayer/multilayer combination of Olive Oil and water is similar to our skin’s sebum and water matrix. This is a PEG-free, ethoxylate-free, natural emulsifier derived from Olive Oil. This soap-free product has great spreading properties and is a great skin moisturizer.

CoValence Formulates with Olivem^® 1000

CoValence frequently develops elegant face creams and lotions with our paraben-free Olivem Base (comprised of Olivem^® 1000) thanks in part to its green and scientific technologies. Please request the Olivem Base from your Account Executive the next time you develop a moisturizer with anti-age properties – you will not be disappointed.

Olay® Pro-X Wrinkle Smoothing Cream: Pro or Pro-Mimic?

By now almost everyone has seen the massive marketing campaign from Olay^® Professional for their Pro-X product line. They claim that after 8 weeks of use their products are “as effective as the leading prescription brand regimen at reducing the look of fine lines and wrinkles.” Olay^® nods to our economic woes and suggests that you can cancel your appointment with the med-spa or pricey dermatologist and remarkably still get the same professional results with the economic friendly Pro-X regimen.

Can their claims be true? Let’s take a look at the Olay^® Pro-X Wrinkle Smoothing Cream ingredient list to see what makes up this product…

Water, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Niacinamide, Isohexadecane, Isopropyl Isostearate, Dimethiconol, Panthenol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-7, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Elastin, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Stearyl Alcohol, Polyacrylamide, Peg-100 Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Glucoside, Cetyl Alcohol, Benzyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Sucrose Polycottonseedate, Laureth-7, Stearic Acid, Peg-4 Dilaurate, Peg-4 Laurate, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, Peg-4, Decyl Glucoside, Titanium Dioxide, Tin Oxide, Lactic Acid, Citric Acid, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Propylparaben, Disodium Edta, Ammonium Polyacrylate, Mica.

Olay^® highlights the Niacinamide because it “strengthens the stratum corneum by increasing surface skin renewal and improving the moisture barrier to help reverse the appearance of past skin damage.” We agree with Olay^®’s use of Niacinamide. To the public it may seem like a new ingredient, however, CoValence has used Niacinamide for years.

Palmitoyl Dipeptide 7, is a peptide exclusive to Olay® for collagen production/skin soundness. We have seen in our formulas that SYN^®-COLL (Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5) and SYN^®-TACKS (Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-6) are better choices to boost collagen synthesis, reduce wrinkles and improve skin firmness.

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide 4, the peptide formerly known as Matrixyl^®, stimulates the synthesis of collagen, elastin and glucosaminoglycans.  Sederma sold Matrixyl^®’s rights to Proctor & Gamble and turned around and made an improved Matrixyl^® 3000 for the rest of us. Matrixyl^® 3000 beat Matrixyl^® hands down in a clinical show-down for anti-wrinkle and lifting activity, as well as, improved tone and elasticity. We are okay with that.

Pro-X is full of PEGs, Parabens and Silicones which would be fine if you weren’t expected to put it on your face. The third ingredient (after water) is Dimethicone which is used in most make-up primers to fill in lines, wrinkles and prep for a flawless makeup finish, but it does little if anything to prevent and reduce wrinkles.

Parabens are used extensively with this line because the product would grow some really nasty bacteria and mold before it ever reached the consumer. We are not against the use of preservatives in products, to keep the variety of germs at bay. In fact we strive to use the most current and ‘friendly’ preservatives on the market.

Olay^®’s Money Back Guarantee sweetens their deal with an unconditional return policy if you remember after 2 months to keep the receipt, cut out the UPC code on the packaging, keep your empties and ship them. In reality the Money Back Guarantee doesn’t seem too special since most companies would stand by their products enough to return money to an unhappy consumer.

In conclusion, the Pro-X Wrinkle Smoothing Cream has been proven not to be a true professional product, but merely a Pro-Mimic. The fact is nothing replaces a trip to a professional for skin care advice and genuine professional products. After all, your skin is the largest organ you have and it should not be trusted to just anyone, including those with large visible marketing campaigns.

HBA Global Enpo in NYC

CoValence is getting ready for the upcoming HBA Global Expo in New York City on September 15th, 16th and 17th. We will be located in the Private Label & Contract Manufacturing Pavilion, booth #2112. Registration is still open. Be sure to get your tickets and stop by our booth. See you there!