Happy Days are Here Again… As of July 1^st we started batching more Vault products in order for you to have complete Anti-Aging, Acne, Sensitive and Brightening product systems, at more doable prices. The Vault products are only available in bulk, and filling minimums still apply, however one (1) to three (3) gallons of a batched product are now more favorably priced.

In addition to the new batched Vault products, we have added brand new formulas to our Vault offering – giving you more opportunities to be a hero for your clients.

Please contact a Sales or Account Executive to get the updated Vault Price List and Catalog.

ORGANICALLY INTRIGUING

We started our USDA’s National Organic Program (NOP) Certification with gusto and after our Regulatory Department has worked on the paperwork for countless hours, we can now see the light at the end of the tunnel!

There have been times during the process when we questioned if it was necessary to get the NOP certification due to that the USDA does not oversee the ‘organic’ claims made in skincare. However, we knew that there would come a day when an independent body would take matters into their own hands and mandate that products are NOP certified if the word “organic” is used on product labeling. Well… it isn’t farfetched, but it is intriguing, that Whole Foods Market is the first (that we have seen) non-regulatory body to enforce their independent organic guidelines. Here is their blog, if you are interested in reading more…

 http://blog.wholefoodsmarket.com/2010/06/organic-labeling-for-body-care/

I SCREAM, YOU SCREAM,  

WE ALL SCREAM FOR A DREAM CREAM!

What is a dream cream? I think it is safe to say that we all have our own vision of the ingredients that make up a dream cream, serum, elixir, et al. As many of you are aware, CoValence is not unlike every other manufacturer in the skincare industry. We are all questioning whether the process of reformulating products is a need of safety and sustainability, or simply consumer demand?

The answer is probably a little bit of both. Two different industry magazines succinctly touched on the topic in regards to how consumer demand could be creating industry changes that are not necessarily the best for any of us.

NewScientist’s March 13, 2010 issue mentioned that while we are moving towards more renewable ingredient resources, “…they can be far from environmentally benign…” In Cosmeticsdesign.com, Katie Bird wrote in her June 15^th article, “Manufacturers are reformulating to tick all the consumer’s boxes, which in itself is dangerous as this is a moving target…”

 What does all of this mean? It means… know your facts about ingredients, safety, sustainability, etc. and do not panic if you read something new on a blog. Understand that not all ‘natural’ ingredients are the best choice just as you should not be afraid of ‘lab derived” ingredients. The world consists of the good, the bad and the ugly ingredients – albeit subjective. Our job is to utilize the ‘good’ and educate everyone on the ‘bad’ and ‘ugly’.

ARE YOU DOING YOUR BODY GOOD?

Debates continue to erupt amongst industry experts and scientists over Vitamin D and the role it plays on our skin. There have been recent discussions over whether Vitamin D should be ingested orally or produced naturally within the body. In the article, “To D or Not to D: Many Still Question Vitamin D,” posted by Cosmetic & Toiletries, we learn that the majority of current research on Vitamin D is both “inconclusive and often contradictory.”  Who’s right? Who’s wrong? Consequently, the consumer is left to judge and make that decision for us because, as mentioned in the previous article, ultimately they are the ones who drive the market.

Even more pressing is the use of sunscreens and “their potential to block Vitamin D production in the body.”  In the article, Henry Lim, MD writes, “…proving that Vitamin D could prevent certain illnesses would require large studies that no pharmaceutical manufacturers would support.” With that said, it is imperative for manufacturers such as ourselves to remain knowledgeable about industry news such as this.  We must do our part to provide consumers with a product that will ultimately benefit their body and perhaps protect it at the same time. It is like that old saying repeated by Zoe Diana Draelos, MD in the Cosmetics & Toiletries post, “You can have too much of a good thing.” It is important for us all to remember that moderation is the key. Whether you choose to get your fill of Vitamin D orally, or the old fashioned way, just be wise and be careful-no one knows your body better than YOU!

 Formulation note… Vitamin D in skincare is not accepted in many countries; Almond Oil contains a natural supply of Vitamin D.

 NEED A GOOD MECHANIC?

We dare say that there are only a few of us that could call ourselves mechanically inclined when it comes to cars, appliances and our skin. Our skin? Yes, our skin! However, rest assured… even if you are not the best mechanic for your skin, CoValence develops with ingredients that trigger skin mechanisms which result in perfectly tuned up skin.

Back in November 2009 we brought Renovage™ to your attention. Renovage™ triggers and stabilizes the mechanism of telomere shortening, prolonging cell life by 1/3. Not too shabby for a skincare ingredient. Is it?

Another extremely efficient mechanism ingredient that we introduced to you in August 2009 is, LONGEVICELL^®. This botanical extract from myrtle, is rich in oligogalacturonans and has been proven to slow down the senescence factors plus activate the SIRT1 (Sirtuin) expression in skin —  increasing the life of cells. LONGEVICELL^® is a true cell regenerator and guardian of tissue longevity erasing the first signs of aging.

It is our pleasure to introduce “Most wanted antioxidant” to you…  Thiotane (L-ergothioneine). This powerful chiral antioxidant is a natural amino acid, MMPi, UVA/UVB protector, products energy, scavenges free radicals, recycles Vitamin C like Vitamin E, neutralizes ozone, inhibits tyrosinase and, last but not least, it has been found to be far superior to CoQ10 and Idebenone! Need we say more?

PLANT STEM CELLS

The Apple Stem Cells started a revolution in skincare thanks in part to its intense research showing that a plant stem cell could actually combat aging, reducing and preventing wrinkles. With its immense popularity, a handful of new plant stem cells followed suit.

CoValence owns, along with the Apple Stem Cell, six (6) more additional beautiful and potent plant stem cells. To get the most marketing mileage out of a product that contains plant stem cells, we recommend that you formulate (*) with the Apple Stem Cells and then add one (1) or two (2) booster plant stem cells from the other six (6) choices…

Centella Asiatica Stem Cells… firms, restructures and improves skin tone and elasticity – offers relief for Rosacea sufferers.

 Echinacea Stem Cells… revitalizes dull, tired skin, restoring radiance – assists with collagen production.

Edelweiss Stem Cells… prevents collagen loss and aging of skin – benefits the eye contour area.

 Butterfly Bush Stem Cells… boosts skin’s defense towards environmental elements and protects against photoaging – offers MMPi and UV stress protection.

Lilac Stem Cells… reduces sebum, bacteria and inflammation – complete treatment for acne disorders.

Sea Fennel Stem Cells (**)… reinforces antioxidant protection, regulates keratogenesis and pigmentation disorders — complete anti-aging solution.

 (*) Plant Stem Cells work best in a cream or lotion base.

(**) The Sea Fennel Stem Cells are a new favorite of our R&D Team. Due to the ingredient’s lead-time our production time line could stretch up to 10 to 12 weeks. However, we feel the extra few weeks will be worth the wait!

May’s edition of Around the Water Cooler is targeting ‘out of the box’ ideas for preventing skin aging.

Step Away from the Bubble Gum (maybe)

Skin Inc. posted an article in March titled, “Could Gum-chewing Cause Wrinkles; Shorten Filler Lifespan?”. Based on beauty blogs, and not research, the article stated that there seems to be a gum-wrinkle connection due to the repetitive motion of chewing gum. However, on the flip-side, research has discovered that chewing gum can decrease stress and increases alertness. Hmm… is gum the culprit or repetition? According to Joel Schlessinger, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and cosmetic surgeon, “Repetition is the culprit.”

So, feel free to keep chewing gum to reduce stress… in moderation.

Stop – Drop – Relax

Have you felt stressed this last week? Last hour? According to www.motivationalplus.com some of the symptoms of a stressed woman are… guilt, weight gain, moody, anxiety, rushed, feeling overwhelmed and irritable. After some research, you also need to add… premature aging of skin. We (not our loved ones or co-workers) may be able to deal with the moodiness, but premature aging of the skin? No thank you!

An easy way to reduce stress is to – stop, drop and relax! We have found that spraying a room or work space with the Bio-Guard Mist (VLT0.6700) is an effective way to create a peaceful environment, reducing stress, even if the restful feeling only lasts a couple moments before someone needs you to save the world.

The Bio-Guard Mist is popular for promoting health (immune stimulating, antimicrobial, decongestant), wellness (stress relief, emotional balance, mental clarity, energizing) and environmental cleanliness. Therefore, to help promote beautiful, healthy skin… find and embrace an extra free moment in your day, spray Bio-Guard Mist and let the stress melt away. You are worth it!

Multi-Task Age Fighters

Enhancements in Cosmeceuticals makes it easier than ever to multi-task a skin care regimen and, concurrently, gives us more time to enjoy the rest of our day. We, at CoValence, are biased. We admit it. We love the products we make whether the products are custom or for our Vault. Each product has a story and a purpose, but we are especially fond of our products that fight age, not with one ingredient ‘jab’… but a ‘TKO’ combination of ingredients and benefits.

Here is a list of our Color Palette products which are perfect examples of multi-task age fighters…

• Sweet Pea Pink Cheek Gel (VLT0.7501)
• Bronze Glow Cheek Gel (VLT0.7502)
  
• Rose is a Rose Cheek Gel (VLT0.7503)
  
• Red Infusion Cheek Gel (VLT0.7504)
• Volu-9 Lip Tint (VLT0.8000)
• Hint of Tint Serum Anti-Age (Medium VLT0.4011, Light VLT0.4013)
• Hint of Tint Serum Clarifying (Medium VLT0.4012, Light VLT0.4014)

SIRTUIN – A Knight in Shining Armor

An easy way for one to remember the benefits of a Sirtuin is to picture a Knight in Shining Armor – bravely protecting the DNA of our cells from destruction of aging scavengers.

Sirtuins are protein enzymes that affect cellular metabolism which plays a vital role in the manifestations of aging. Research is ongoing in this area, but there has been successful approaches conducted towards finding methods that fuel sirtuins. Research has shown that there are effective sirtuin activating compounds which promote the cell’s resistance to stress factors as well as prolong a cell’s life.

Resveratrol and its derivative compounds (Giant Knotweed), are some of the most compelling activators of sirtuins – lengthening a cell’s lifespan. According to Jin Liu, “combining the resveratrol amalgam with the various specified ingredients achieves significant effects such as the following: inhibits fatty acid oxidation and helps to keep cell membranes in good condition.” In addition, the sirtuin activators are capable of stimulating collagen and elastin plus inhibiting inflammation, tyrosinase activity and glycosylation processes – an infantry of anti-aging knights.

It would be our pleasure to customize a product for you with sirtuin activators. Not interested in customizing? Our emollient Night Cream (VLT0.5004) was created to help activate sirtuins.

Most of you have probably heard of the term “Sharpen the Saw” from the 7 Habits of Highly Effective People (Stephen R. Covey). If the term is new to you, it is stating that we must always keep improving. If we do not have time to sharpen our saws, because we are too busy sawing trees, we will never be able to do a good job. How many trees have you cut down with a dull saw? When was the last time you sharpened your saw?

CoValence will help you sharpen your saws. We provide industry, ingredient and CoValence information through our weekly blogs and monthly SKINsider. We are also working on a new 2010 initiative which will put more ingredient selling points and industry trends into your hands to help you sell your products!

In addition to receiving our blogs and SKINsider, you can link to more industry magazines on our website. Here are a few excellent resources that we find to be excellent resources:

•  The Beauty Industry Report
•  Cosmetics Design
•  Cosmetic News Weekly 
• Happi Magazine 
• GCI Magazine 
• Women’s Wear Daily
•  The Wall Street Journal
•  Skin Inc.

 2010 is the time to step away from the trees and start sharpening your saw! CoValence is here to help!

Phycocyanin: A Novel Cosmetic Ingredient from Algae

Algae are photosynthetic organisms with a total of 2,530,000 species. Algae can be found with a diversity of forms and sizes, that can exist from unicellular microscopic organisms (microalgae) to multicellular of great size (macroalgae). Blue-green algae, also known as Cyanobacteria, are a very interesting natural source of new compounds with biological activity that could be successfully used as functional cosmetic ingredients. Blue-green algae are present in almost all aquatic ecosystems, including creeks, rivers, lakes and wetlands. It is the Phycocyanin Photosynthetic Pigment that gives Cyanobacteria their bluish color and the name “blue-green algae”. The antioxidant, anti-cancer, anti-inflammatory, neuroprotective, antimicrobial and radical scavenging activities of Phycocyanin from different Cyanobacteria are well documented, but they are rarely utilized.

Many adverse skin symptoms are accompanied or even caused by oxidative stress that is characterized by excessive formation of Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) that cannot be counteracted by the antioxidant defense systems of the human body. Therefore the therapeutic application of natural Phycocyanin with strong antioxidant activity will be more useful to keep the skin healthy and young. Among the antioxidative agents Phycocyanin appears to be promising. It exerts also anti-inflammatory, neuroprotective and hepatoprotective effects, which are closely connected with its antioxidative activity.

Antioxidative Properties of Phycocyanin Demonstrated by In Vitro Studies

Lipid peroxidation mediated by ROS is believed to be an important cause of destruction and damage to cell membranes, because a simple initiating event can result in the conversion of hundreds of fatty acids side chain into lipid peroxides, which alters the structural integrity and biochemical functions of membranes, which causes premature aging symptoms and wrinkles. Dr. Remirez and coworkers from Ozone Research Center, Cuba showed that Phycocyanin significantly inhibits the increase in lipid peroxides and protect the cell membrane damage. The researchers from McGill University, Canada (Jensen et al. 2001) found that the whole Cyanobacteria are suggested to stimulate the human immune system and possess antioxidant, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, anti-viral, anti-cancer, cholesterol- lowering effects and human cells growth enhancement mainly because of their Phycocyanin content in the cell.

We are always interested at CoValence in exploring the potential natural green ingredients in our cosmetic products knowing that if we have the best ingredients, so will our clients. The Phycocyanin pigment from the blue-green algae is a recent addition to our green cosmetic ingredient list.

Around the Water Cooler

Here are some quick summaries from important articles that we have recently read. You may find them interesting topics to discuss around the water cooler or in your next company meeting.

American Trends: The Year Ahead (by Andrea Nagel; from WWD Special Report Issue 01.29.10)

A key strategy in 2010 is toward “increased brand diversity” and “companies shifting their category focus.”

(*) How can CoValence help you with this strategy? We have over 3000 professional, OTC and retail skincare/personal care formulas that can be quickly blended to fit all of your strategies. Our clients sell in the professional market, high end department stores, beauty specialty stores, infomercials, on-line, etc. We can quickly help you switch gears if you want to try your hand at different distribution channels.

Injectable Procedures Up in 2009 (from Skin Inc.; posted 02.01.10)

Facial “injectable procedures appear to have experienced a boost during the 4^th quarter of 2009.”

(*) Do you have a product that is marketed as a complement to a facial injection procedure? If not, consider adding a new skincare product into your line up or simply ask CoValence to help you enhance any of your current products. A post-injection skincare product is a perfect opportunity to increase sales since injection procedures are increasing and individuals want to improve upon the injection results – thus getting more mileage out of the procedure.

2010 CoValence Innovations

As most of you know, CoValence has been manufacturing unique ingredient concept products since 1989.  Including the introduction of the concept of Chirality in skincare manufacturing, in the mid-90’s.  We are very interested in sophisticated, “mechanism of action” ingredients.  So, it is our pleasure to give you a glimpse of some of what we are working on for 2010:

• Mitoprotect^TM 2: CoValence Laboratories developed the Mitoprotect^TM technology with encapsulated ingredients to nourish and stimulate the mitochondrial support enzymes.  Mitoprotect™ 2 will be introduced soon. 
•  Plant Stem Cell (new – not on the market) technology for enhanced function of human stem cells via plant stem cell active components. 
• Enhanced Spin Trap technology  formulated as a superior anti-ROS/DNA protective complex
• Endothelin Antagonists for high efficiency skin lightening in human skin
• Enhanced Sirtuin complexes

Natural Fragrance

Fragrances are typically composed of synthetic chemical isolates, essential oils and other aroma compounds. Some of those chemical isolates used by the fragrance industry were synthesized to cut costs, but were originally inspired by ones found in nature, i.e. Eugenol; which is found in clove, cinnamon and bay essential oils

A natural fragrance uses chemical isolates extracted directly from a natural, botanical source, thus eliminating the presence of synthetically derived chemicals and solvents. The main benefit of using this method is that the finished blend is considered natural. However, an additional benefit is that the perfumer has the ability to create a dramatically more complex and richer blend without the restrictions associated with blending solely with essential oils. 

What’s OLD is now NEW

 
CoValence started selling our Anti-A.G.E. complex back in the 1990′s. The Anti-A.G.E. complex was designed to fight against “Advanced Glycation End-products”. Yet, why is there an article in BlogBeyondBeauty.com titled “Glycation, the new word in the anti-age fight“? Our struggle with the article (new product introduction) is not with the idea of fighting glycation… we simply question the term “new magic word“. Maybe the title should have been, “Don’t forget about Glycation“! 

You may be wondering how CoValence could customize a product for you with an Anti-A.G.E. complex? Simple. An Anti-A.G.E. complex typically slips into most products without changing the texture, scent or color. Contact your Account Executive if you would like to enhance your products with an Anti-A.G.E complex of your own.

There has been a lot of buzz around resveratrol lately.  In fact, Arch Personal Care received the 2009 BSB Innovation Prize  in the ‘naturals’ categoryfor their Metabiotics™ Resveratrol . 

Resveratrol is a polyphenolic antioxidant and phytoalexin commonly found in red grapes and wine that CoValence has formulated with for years. Our resveratrol is a stable form derived from Giant Knotweed (Polygonum Cuspidatum) which is the richest natural source of resveratrol available.  It is commonly known that resveratrol has potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, helping protect skin from UV damage, but the buzz around resveratrol these days is that resveratrol acts as an activator of Sirtuins, increasing cellular life.

Ask today how you can incorporate Resveratrol into your next development project.

INCI – Polygonum Cuspidatum (Giant Knotweed) Extract

Resveratrol can be found in the Vault’s Night Cream (VLT0.5004G). Contact your Account Executive for more information on Resveratrol and the Night Cream.

This last year, our industry divided like never before between the natural, organic movement  and science-driven technologies with buzz words like, mitochondria, telomeres and stem cells.  As 2009 comes to an end, we bring you the top 10 hottest ingredients or trends of 2009.

10. Zemea® (Propanediol) made headlines from cosmetic industry magazines to beauty magazines this year as a corn-derived alternative to Propylene Glycol. Then it went on to receive the much coveted ECOCERT seal.

9. Resveratrol has been around for years as a potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory, but in 2009 got new buzz as an activator of sirtuins, increasing cell life.

8. Japanese Honeysuckle as a broad spectrum preservative. C’mon, how many preservatives sound this pretty?

7. With HQ’s future still hanging in the balance, Nonapeptide-1 came on the scene as the first peptide that lightens skin and prevents further hyperpigmentation. We welcome all brigheners!

6. Superfruits. Why do we have to pick one? They have been around for a few years now but are not losing steam. Acai and blueberry and cranberry, Oh my! Camu camu and goji and mangosteen, Galore!

5. Perflurocarbons found their way into mainstream skin care from their medical beginnings as liquid blood (yes, that’s right, liquid blood) to combat wrinkles and offer an alternative to Botox.

4. With the 2009 Nobel Prize of Physiology being awarded for telomere research, Renovage™ (Teprenone) has to make the list for stabilizing telomere shortening and increasing cell life by 1/3.

3. Eyelash Lengthening became one of the hottest topics after the prescription Latisse® hit the market.  Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17 was developed as a non-prescription alternative, promising 25% increase in lash length and volume within two weeks.

2. Organic. This was the year that launched 1000 organic brands! We have yet to get a clear and legal definition what that means…….

1.  Apple Stem Cells, by far, made the most headlines in 2009, and we understand why! Cutting edge technology isolated and cultured a rare apple’s stem cells that stimulate our own skin’s stem cells combating aging and wrinkles. Very, very futuristic.

Myrtle Extract – What‘s a Sirtuin?

Sirtuins are making headlines as the new superstar in the fight against aging at the cellular level. But what are they? Sirtuins are a class of proteins that regulate gene activity and cellular life spans by prolonging the life of fibroblasts, collagen producing powerhouses. There are at least seven human sirtuins, named SIRT1 through SIRT7. SIRT1 stands for Silent Information Regulation Two homolog 1 and is the key to cell longevity.

This is where myrtle extract comes in. LONGEVICELL^® is a botanical extract from myrtle, a scented white flower from a Mediterranean shrub rich in oligogalacturonans. It has been proven to slow down the senescence factors and activate the SIRT1 expression in skin, increasing the lifetime of cells. LONGEVICELL^® also blocks the glycation reaction of collagen keeping skin smooth and supple. It is a true cell regenerator and guardian of tissue longevity erasing the first signs of aging.

INCI: Water, Hydrolyzed Myrtus Communis Leaf Extract

Contact your Account Executive for more information on developing a with LONGEVICELL^®.